Well, the changes to the muslin were not completely successful. In fact, the phrase "epic fail" comes to mind. Stephanie tried to tell me "everything is fine". So I took a picture for her. "THIS is fine? You want to wear THIS?" I admit my voice was raised. A perfect storm of disappointment in my sewing skills, the realization that we were really close to a deadline (and she wouldn't be home next weekend for another fitting), as well as the fact that I'm remodeling a bathroom, pushed me over the edge. As my son watched from the couch, he calmly suggested buying a dress for her. Why didn't I think of that?!
|I thought I got rid of all that extra gaping.|
Once we calmed down a bit, I took an assessment of what changes were needed:
- more room in the shoulder cap
- increase width at shoulder seam
- add height to side back armscye
- add a sleeve gusset or add a lot of height to the sleeve and armscye
- there appears to be too much fabric above the bust, but that is partially caused by the sleeve pulling the bodice off her body, pinched out some anyway.
- the neckline still gaped a tiny bit, but I think I can ease that out with ease-stitching the seam allowance and some stay tape.
My husband offered to take our son to a movie, and I sat down and tried to figure out where I went wrong and how to correct it. Having a cup of coffee, was probably a mistake. I panicked. I pulled out the inspiration dress and started doing a knockoff of the bodice (it's two pieces with a few darts, how bad could it be?). 10 minutes into that exercise, I realized I was crazy and abandoned it. I briefly considered recutting the bodice with the original pattern, which had no problems other than a slightly tight armscye. But we didn't really like the neckline. Do I have another TNT bodice that I could substitute? I was pretty wound up. So I shelved it for 24 hours.
After finishing the work I get paid for on Monday, I pulled it out again and gave it a fresh look. The gusset was really my first choice for increasing her range of motion. I probably could redraft the sleeve with little wings to build in the gusset, but it's a bit late in the game to experiment. A gusset worked during the fitting, keep it. Latest changes include:
- Redrafted sleeve with more room in the cap
- Redrafted the front/back bodice pieces with a tad more room in the shoulder
- Extended the armscye of the side back piece about 3/8"
- Created a gusset
|How can we be missing that much room in the armpit?|
I did a terrible job marking my gusset, so I had another little meltdown trying to sew it to the new sleeve and bodice. ("Is this the top or the bottom? Does this attach at the notch or a random location? Wahhhhhhh!) Pin, unpin, pin again, unpin again. Hand baste. It's a very fiddly spot to try to sew with a machine.
Also, there's an odd little curve to the gusset piece on one side. I left the weird curve in on the right sleeve, and smoothed it out on the left just to test if I needed it, or if it was a mistake. My hypothesis is that the weird curve adds problems. I know I said no more experimentation, but I can't help myself.
|Gusset with smoothed curve from below.|
|Muslin #4? Who's counting, anyway. The left sleeve |
seems to hang nicer than the right. Probably that odd curve!
Now I need a fitting on the real body. I'm working that out. This weekend she has a "leadership retreat" and won't be able to come home. The concert is one week from today. Okay. More panic. Can I come down there? No answer. I'm sure her dorm room is a mess and she doesn't want me near it. I offered to meet her at Walmart and try it on in the ladies room. The handicapped stalls have plenty of room, and the light is pretty good. Fitting a muslin is probably one of the least weird things that has happened in a Walmart bathroom.