tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44845799738170884822024-02-18T20:52:04.428-06:00Madame Sew-and-SewMy adventures in sewing.Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.comBlogger74125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-42782030114086753842018-06-27T09:43:00.001-05:002018-06-27T09:43:42.559-05:00Welcome Back!All is well here. I was just very busy over the past 2 1/2 years. We moved twice, remodeled one of the homes, and built a new one. Not much sewing -- at least no garments -- there were <i>many</i> window coverings, however. <br />
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The single item of clothing that I have to show for the last 30 months is McCall's 6332 (out of print). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7kysCuVVTyDUifePXaHAZCMT-OHDLb31NG2kAmaIgH52-ZlyrBQifjrcCpf504_D8xUk2i0V32-e4NQwAjW3TYM0E14Do4xcGA-BxcPZ0I_F_f_d5vMVoNBHHqiy2esVrBUklZSzkrnn/s1600/mccalls+6332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="754" data-original-width="570" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7kysCuVVTyDUifePXaHAZCMT-OHDLb31NG2kAmaIgH52-ZlyrBQifjrcCpf504_D8xUk2i0V32-e4NQwAjW3TYM0E14Do4xcGA-BxcPZ0I_F_f_d5vMVoNBHHqiy2esVrBUklZSzkrnn/s400/mccalls+6332.jpg" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great pattern, sorry it's OOP.</td></tr>
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<br />Several years ago, I made a last-minute satin jumpsuit for my daughter to wear to a charity gala. When a recent event was approaching, she decided she didn't want to wear her <a href="http://madamesewandsew.blogspot.com/2014/11/finally-pictues-of-vogue-8997.html">trusty black orchestra gown</a> again, so asked for a (last-minute) velvet jumpsuit instead.<br />
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This is the original from 2012. If she appears to be awkwardly posing, it is because the crotch is a tad short. As I may have mentioned, it was a last-minute request and she was "too busy" for fittings. So I guesstimated some things. She was very, very careful when she sat down that night.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMblLaebncjf6zFNRHlI_w8xDd60hIPkLtvN5YOrvn5sZq5o10etkSxB0h-Vy8aytn7zJ4qGX1UxBneiaEifazoYYMl3IQ6rBOLQ0QchnascHTBx6-6q7mYF6voNuZmsu_T8rIVPL35sE2/s1600/Color+of+Hope+%25282012%2529+Steve++Stephanie.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="917" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMblLaebncjf6zFNRHlI_w8xDd60hIPkLtvN5YOrvn5sZq5o10etkSxB0h-Vy8aytn7zJ4qGX1UxBneiaEifazoYYMl3IQ6rBOLQ0QchnascHTBx6-6q7mYF6voNuZmsu_T8rIVPL35sE2/s400/Color+of+Hope+%25282012%2529+Steve++Stephanie.JPG" width="228" /></a></div>
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After a weekend locked in my new basement sewing chamber, I churned out a pretty nice update. I measured carefully and lengthened the crotch by about 1.5" and FBA'd the top. The bust could have used more fabric. (Once again, we didn't have time for a muslin.) She could comfortably sit down this time, but had to be very careful about arm placement to keep that full bust covered.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpUKbQPg_tOALlUHIYdUguqxcfYTeb_DYxORgd5fm61zXyDCJEa6QRJ0Tir5pZbNLNjzTk-AM1tRka3bDY7njoiG4ahqzv09brzLqOXQmmhLx5_TtAlFgDuahQiVBN10Cw05C3MZOww6t/s1600/Mercy+Ball+2017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpUKbQPg_tOALlUHIYdUguqxcfYTeb_DYxORgd5fm61zXyDCJEa6QRJ0Tir5pZbNLNjzTk-AM1tRka3bDY7njoiG4ahqzv09brzLqOXQmmhLx5_TtAlFgDuahQiVBN10Cw05C3MZOww6t/s400/Mercy+Ball+2017.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://static.spacecrafted.com/d07e0d3d1f8945e09e414b8a3028ecc3/i/d87dc3630a1d4765ba9ae54b1813490c/1/2GTQbgiNxerRr5gcT6hkjr8dsnb6NBTxXMi2obS">Source: Celebrate Arkansas Magazine</a></td></tr>
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So here we are at the big event (it was December 2017). Yes, that's me in an ill-fitting top because I ran out of time to tailor my own clothes. The jumpsuit was a hit. And I'm back to making curtains.<br />
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<br />Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-27223037624730143272016-01-02T13:12:00.003-06:002016-01-02T13:23:45.774-06:00In Case You Were Wondering......about the Burdastyle dress that I began several weeks ago, I never did sew it. After my tantrum over the Swedish tracing paper, I spent a week or two mulling (obsessing) over my possibilities and decided that I really would like to try it in a real fabric, confident that the changes necessary to fit me comfortably were not that complicated.<br />
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Unfortunately, a series of time-consuming events got in my way, one of which involved packing up everything in the "sewing room" so that our dining room was clean. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VE-WTf4p6mk/Vmse3m6gj9I/AAAAAAAACxY/zeOIK-93e9Q/s1600/Clean_SewingRoom.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VE-WTf4p6mk/Vmse3m6gj9I/AAAAAAAACxY/zeOIK-93e9Q/s320/Clean_SewingRoom.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It looked so clean, I didn't want to clutter it up again!</td></tr>
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I realized that I (still) have a serious problem with acquiring sewing clutter when I filled five boxes with the fabric, patterns and magazines that sat on the table and counter. This doesn't include all the fabric that's already filling the dining room cabinets!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9_EjkVota00/Vmse3jHeqRI/AAAAAAAACxY/9tQqaODx3Pc/s1600/Sewing_Boxes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9_EjkVota00/Vmse3jHeqRI/AAAAAAAACxY/9tQqaODx3Pc/s320/Sewing_Boxes.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now where do I put these?!</td></tr>
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Fast forward through my daughter's travel wardrobe and other interruptions and a week or two before the gala, I once again panicked with the thought of nothing to wear. I have a blue velvet dress in the back of my closet that really did spark joy when I cleaned my closet last spring. It is lovely and comfortable, but <i>sleeveless, </i>which is why I've only worn it once in the 15 years that I've owned it. Since it's usually freezing in December, I decided the quickest solution would be a bolero jacket. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/First_Full/V8957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="V8957" border="0" src="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/First_Full/V8957.jpg" height="400" title="Vogue 8957 Bolero Jacket with 3/4 Sleeves" width="378" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 8957</td></tr>
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Amazingly, I found a nice velvet that matched my dress perfectly, and a taffeta that would have been a nice complement. Vogue 8957 recommended taffeta, dupioni and shantung, but velvet sounded so warm and cozy and <i>comfortable.</i> My memories of cold winters past convinced me that velvet was necessary. How often do you find a fabric to match perfectly, anyway?<br />
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Knowing that pleating of this magnitude would not work well on velvet, I choose to gather the trim into ruffles instead, which worked out fairly well, though it left bulky seam allowances.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uGQRWH6Rh6Y/VoSGqUNIigI/AAAAAAAACzc/ykyto7ngtBA/s1600/V8957_UpperBack.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uGQRWH6Rh6Y/VoSGqUNIigI/AAAAAAAACzc/ykyto7ngtBA/s400/V8957_UpperBack.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Vogue 8957 is a fairly easy pattern to fit and sew, though fitting was not as easy as I expected. I considered not making a muslin, thinking that I wouldn't need an FBA or swayback adjustment, but the velvet was rather expensive. I justified the muslin by telling myself it would help deplete my overflowing stash.<br />
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A size 12 was perfect for my shoulder width. However, once the sleeves were on, I felt like I was wearing a straight jacket. Adding 1.5" at the underarm seam and tapering it to the notches worked perfectly. In the end, I was grateful that I took an extra hour to make a muslin.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-aY5a6DwI7qjPgSqzwxwfP1nB5OE_q5kPCFMXALuj8ISWJnwkWhAbjL3bV3NVVbYF7AA377b6dhZnUlXWVJVHqHNsFhKJS-vzTzLP7Je5XJiUUeEFbDtQ69Q69lqX9-HdAeUvYjUdHjlN/s1600/V8957_sleeve.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-aY5a6DwI7qjPgSqzwxwfP1nB5OE_q5kPCFMXALuj8ISWJnwkWhAbjL3bV3NVVbYF7AA377b6dhZnUlXWVJVHqHNsFhKJS-vzTzLP7Je5XJiUUeEFbDtQ69Q69lqX9-HdAeUvYjUdHjlN/s400/V8957_sleeve.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding 1.5" to the underarm allowed me to move my arms. (I sewed a 12.)</td></tr>
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Since it was so quick to sew, I talked myself into beading to coordinate with the dress. Instead of trusting myself to make nice beaded flowers, I sewed the iridescent glass beads randomly on the jacket, which turned out fine -- it is festive, but next time I will chose a more organized pattern. I underlined the velvet with silk organza to give it some body, and act as a stabilizer for the beading.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bdYuVEWbpK8/VoSGqRuqlVI/AAAAAAAACzc/xN5Qll2baxA/s1600/V8957_Shoulder.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bdYuVEWbpK8/VoSGqRuqlVI/AAAAAAAACzc/xN5Qll2baxA/s400/V8957_Shoulder.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I really liked the pleated/ruffled edge .</td></tr>
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None of the pictures of me wearing the outfit do much to show the jacket, due to poor lighting. To my chagrin, the flash resulted in focus on my bare cleavage. I will spare you the discomfort, and show them on my mannequin, instead where the flash illuminates the fact that the two velvets are in fact not exactly the same. Sans flash, and in a dimly lit ballroom they are a perfect match.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk6zvto-HHOJt2vvsS6qc1v5LzxD5S48O5dnPlb2E_uClJsi14Vn86_W0qYpVtp8wtK11pXYj5cPAtfVlGrM4wOdNIE5MsWfOhEFLcyHrzSdsusrA07LRlr31s4-Vqr1XL_SUJ7yBNmFEP/s1600/Front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk6zvto-HHOJt2vvsS6qc1v5LzxD5S48O5dnPlb2E_uClJsi14Vn86_W0qYpVtp8wtK11pXYj5cPAtfVlGrM4wOdNIE5MsWfOhEFLcyHrzSdsusrA07LRlr31s4-Vqr1XL_SUJ7yBNmFEP/s640/Front.JPG" width="323" /></a></div>
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It is lined with a medium-to-heavy bodied satin (not a lining), to add to the warmth factor. Alas, it was 70 degrees the day of the event, and I was plenty warm. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy37BfZZvJGBE_d8PLffDYsVYtt73NOozHUKtAsPjv77_uxzIeRyvoARvD_TanMq6L8rU_xW_8zwgSev1CgTVXeY_W5tkK0yKwtBY1Lh-DVn5QbCrNhb-2FwPb7fP5r0N7xK-8LdfArfHf/s1600/V8957_Back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy37BfZZvJGBE_d8PLffDYsVYtt73NOozHUKtAsPjv77_uxzIeRyvoARvD_TanMq6L8rU_xW_8zwgSev1CgTVXeY_W5tkK0yKwtBY1Lh-DVn5QbCrNhb-2FwPb7fP5r0N7xK-8LdfArfHf/s640/V8957_Back.JPG" width="344" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 8957, rear view</td></tr>
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I really love the jacket. It makes the dress wearable for me and I hope that I can find other outfits to pair it with in the future.Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-70002400671719070942015-12-11T13:33:00.002-06:002015-12-11T13:33:46.761-06:00The Anderson BlouseMy days have become very busy with non-sewing projects, but I managed to sew three new tops for my daughter's trip to the Czech Republic in November. Two of which are identical cousins made with Sew Over It's Anderson Blouse Pattern. Forgive my lack of pictures -- my daughter had a cold and didn't want to pose before leaving town.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sew Over It Anderson Blouse</td></tr>
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Believe it or not, this is the first time I've ventured into the realm of sewing an independent pattern. Even though it involved printing and tracing a PDF, it was an overall pleasant experience. <br />
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In search of a flattering style that Gillian Anderson wore frequently in the 1990's X-Files episodes, and which Robin Wright has worn a time or two on House of Cards, I was disappointed not to find anything in the Big 4. Imagine my excitement when I realized that someone else liked the blouse on Gillian Anderson so much that she drafted a pattern! Apparently, they have reappeared in the BBC series "The Fall". <br />
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My only trouble with the pattern was likely due to my ancient ink jet printer that selectively leaves out important parts of print jobs. At times it is everything within the bottom 3 inches of a page, but in this case it was important notches and lines, so there was a lot of reprinting. I would have liked to have the bust apex marked, and perhaps the waist to help with the fitting process. Perhaps my printer left those things out, also.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqHeR8rWnoscmL4torbnLhOIGiB75qZryDYsdvBZLzT9TtBI-qm5em5f6yRGkE5jZXTofdVK8e4YK4R8Asxy-e70hHdk4fTR8rtSvxdoVthB4zeLVP1dm9RMMcssKfZCfc4WW9surNhVla/s1600/white_anderson_front_SG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqHeR8rWnoscmL4torbnLhOIGiB75qZryDYsdvBZLzT9TtBI-qm5em5f6yRGkE5jZXTofdVK8e4YK4R8Asxy-e70hHdk4fTR8rtSvxdoVthB4zeLVP1dm9RMMcssKfZCfc4WW9surNhVla/s640/white_anderson_front_SG.JPG" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Don't show my face!"</td></tr>
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The pattern is fairly simple, with only front, back (cut on fold), sleeve, cuff and bias binding for back neckline. The cuff is narrow with a vent that is finished with a narrow hem that corresponds with the sleeve seam. I made minimal changes to the pattern.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NpcuU4e2DVU/VmnMZidzHCI/AAAAAAAACvU/ZT1Zd6jfpLY/s1600/red_anderson_front_sg.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NpcuU4e2DVU/VmnMZidzHCI/AAAAAAAACvU/ZT1Zd6jfpLY/s400/red_anderson_front_sg.JPG" width="247" /></a></div>
The only true alteration needed was an FBA. My guess is that many people would be fine without it. I started with a size 10, and added about an inch at the bust line by pivoting the armscye. I just cut the pattern along the seam allowance, leaving a hinge at the outer shoulder point, then pivoted the underarm out. That leaves a wedge along the side seam that needs to be filled in as well, which I tapered down to the notch (picture below). The muslin was a little wide in the shoulders, so I just pulled that 1/2" into the existing shoulder gathers, which also helped with an FBA. It seemed to fit very comfortably.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-48ascri0WHA/VmseS1zJYtI/AAAAAAAACxs/dIJSIMnx5J4/s1600/Anderson%2BFBA.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-48ascri0WHA/VmseS1zJYtI/AAAAAAAACxs/dIJSIMnx5J4/s640/Anderson%2BFBA.JPG" width="242" /></a></div>
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The narrow, delicate cuff is a nice feminine touch. I shortened the length of the cuff on the second blouse (and added another pleat to the sleeve) because my daughter's wrists are so thin. I interfaced the cuffs of both versions, out of concern for making a buttonhole in delicate silk. A lightweight fusible was used on the white blouse and silk organza cut on the bias on the red blouse. The organza version was much easier to work with and came out much nicer. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5e5jlUOJerL7TrWaBq5N7UkHwCn3ro1TW3VyWr52TiuhuE7CCIjlKWDOoo79jcxlNTAuSlNAlVgqv0nR9smtGdLw4llM1JV5oFEyndIDPrg3oGLubBJOXlYa9wyliGp8qqbMh2szGV-5q/s1600/White_Anderson_Cuff.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5e5jlUOJerL7TrWaBq5N7UkHwCn3ro1TW3VyWr52TiuhuE7CCIjlKWDOoo79jcxlNTAuSlNAlVgqv0nR9smtGdLw4llM1JV5oFEyndIDPrg3oGLubBJOXlYa9wyliGp8qqbMh2szGV-5q/s400/White_Anderson_Cuff.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Anderson #1 was sewn in a lovely, but very thin silk charmeuse. If I had to do it again, I would order a heavier-bodied fabric, although it seems fine on a human, even without a camisole. On the dark gray dress form it is more transparent.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YhWlntfRI0g/VmnMZlbrBgI/AAAAAAAACwE/Cxg3hrY8Wgc/s1600/white_anderson_gathers.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YhWlntfRI0g/VmnMZlbrBgI/AAAAAAAACwE/Cxg3hrY8Wgc/s400/white_anderson_gathers.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Anderson #2 was sewn with a gorgeous red silk crepe that I bought on ebay a few years ago, provenance unknown. It was advertised as crepe de chine, but I think it was so much more luxurious than any silk crepe de chine I've ever sewn before. Such a joy to sew with, that I didn't want the project to end. I need to find more fabric like that!<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pia1VZt0YBQ/VmnMZpSMufI/AAAAAAAACwE/Xb3rKixP3UE/s1600/red_anderson_front2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pia1VZt0YBQ/VmnMZpSMufI/AAAAAAAACwE/Xb3rKixP3UE/s400/red_anderson_front2.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
I also cut extra bias binding to encase the armscye seams and the entire shoulder seam, as well as the back neckline. Side and sleeve seams were clean finished with French seams. Although I overlocked the raw edge of the front neckline facing on the white shirt, I used a narrow hem on the red shirt and it lays much flatter.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLJvk29mHkkRf4hXR2R9cl_0g6YR9dGN5UhjogFR-gqK0eUaT44-9Aa5Kp39S6kWWF7EdVd6RdStwbjTJXG3ps9UDU0SvTAo7zvem9V3YUbyaouuOpxo9RyfCReZLvfmbzM7OFc5uUGbv0/s1600/white_anderson_suit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLJvk29mHkkRf4hXR2R9cl_0g6YR9dGN5UhjogFR-gqK0eUaT44-9Aa5Kp39S6kWWF7EdVd6RdStwbjTJXG3ps9UDU0SvTAo7zvem9V3YUbyaouuOpxo9RyfCReZLvfmbzM7OFc5uUGbv0/s400/white_anderson_suit.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I like the way the blouse peeks out from the suit jacket.</td></tr>
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Another minor change, was that I did not create the casing for a drawstring as in the pattern instructions. It didn't seem necessary, as it would be worn tucked into a skirt or slacks, and I imagined the drawstring getting in the way. The front necklines are tacked together with catch stitches. I first tried covered snaps, but they were heavy, dragging the silk down.<br />
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I think my daughter liked these blouses, and I expect that at some point I will make more for her, as they're elegant and versatile. It's a simple pattern that can be sewn into a luxurious blouse with the right fabric. Meanwhile, my husband and I have started watching The Fall on Netflix.Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-38150192967675364082015-10-02T13:37:00.000-05:002015-10-02T13:39:02.334-05:00Experiments in Sewing - The Paper GownShortly after <a href="http://madamesewandsew.blogspot.com/2014_12_01_archive.html">wearing my daughter's dress</a> to last year's Charity Ball, I began the hunt for a gown that I could sew for the 2015 event. I found this treasure: Burdastyle Hourglass Lace Gown (11/2014 #121). I'm not sure what I was thinking when I picked it out in February. It has long sleeves? It's fitted? Maybe it was on sale.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://assets.burdastyle.com/pattern_images/assets/000/016/584/121-112014_large.jpg?1414772971" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://assets.burdastyle.com/pattern_images/assets/000/016/584/121-112014_large.jpg?1414772971" height="400" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Does it seem a little too "bombshell" for me?</td></tr>
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I finally got the nerve to print out the PDF (64 pages!), but my tracing paper was nearly gone. While looking for an online source, I came across Swedish Tracing Paper, and I was apparently taken in by the clever marketing: </div>
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<li>"Drapably soft, yet strong enough to sew on!" </li>
<li>"Sew the paper pattern and try it on before cutting out your expensive fabric." </li>
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I would have made a toile, anyway, but my muslin stash was also out of stock. Hmmm, this kills two birds, with one stone.</div>
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Well, not really. You must trace your pattern twice, and the paper is not at all drapable. It is really a stiff interfacing. Although it is technically sewable, it tears easily, especially when ripping out stitches. Admittedly, it is easy to fix a tear by ironing on fusible interfacing.</div>
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Adding to my distaste of the tracing paper, the instructions for this pattern were terrible. I still haven't figured out how the author intended to have the bust cups inserted with lining (I planned to line it by hand, anyway). I inserted the yokes backwards, and sewed the front pieces incorrectly. I found the naming conventions difficult to reconcile (what is the difference between "front center" and front middle")? </div>
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After putting the paper gown together, complete with an invisible zipper, I asked my husband's help in zipping it up. </div>
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"It won't zip up all the way." He seemed to struggle with it.</div>
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"It zipped up for me just fine. Is it caught in the paper? Don't tear the paper!"</div>
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More struggling, then he pulled so hard the zipper pull flew right off the top of the zipper. "I didn't know a zipper could do that." He answered, dumbfounded. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjHiqoAWuRBdr2QhmYxGfEyZujLHBVfaE0ZmSGKZOUVwcLjpRFmn8sZ9GT1f2Xw-LhA_za9Qr38i9KHpwkDpby3YPqWVcj-QmrlDv25CXHP9CCv9SM0Led-ZWPtnuIt_nHRrHQRxetvt2y/s1600/Burda_PaperGown.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjHiqoAWuRBdr2QhmYxGfEyZujLHBVfaE0ZmSGKZOUVwcLjpRFmn8sZ9GT1f2Xw-LhA_za9Qr38i9KHpwkDpby3YPqWVcj-QmrlDv25CXHP9CCv9SM0Led-ZWPtnuIt_nHRrHQRxetvt2y/s640/Burda_PaperGown.JPG" width="364" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No photos of me wearing it.</td></tr>
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So after unpicking the zipper and sewing in a second, we tried it again. It may be the fact that it is made with paper, instead of a nicely draping fabric (or even a poorly draping fabric), but I couldn't get it off quickly enough after seeing it in the mirror.</div>
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I'm not sure why I hated it. Was it because the yokes were so wide set that I knew the shoulders and sleeves would slip off and annoy me? Maybe because I could see right through the paper and hated what I saw underneath? Maybe I expected it to look as good on 5'5" me as it did on a 6' model? Or perhaps I felt as though I had draped myself in Austrian blinds.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maybe because I felt like I was wearing this.</td></tr>
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<br />It is still on the dress form in the dining room, because I hate to give up on it just yet. I could easily extend or shift the yokes toward the center, but I am not sure I want to, so I am searching for an alternative. I have such a hard time sewing for myself. I am not sure why!<div>
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The good news is that a Joann Fabrics is opening close to home today, so I am off to buy some muslin and see what sort of inspiration I can find.</div>
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Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-32000043869602434712015-09-20T18:58:00.001-05:002015-09-20T18:58:24.039-05:00McCall's 6884, A Faux Wrap DressContinuing my series of "the clothes with no one inside," I present McCall's 6884. My daughter is wearing it for an in-service today, but I have no pictures of it on her. She told me this morning that it does fit and is "very comfortable." I thought it looked great on the dress form.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TdW5RjuSCbI/Vf8OH3rH76I/AAAAAAAACqc/-F7INxhpJ2Q/s1600/M6884_Front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TdW5RjuSCbI/Vf8OH3rH76I/AAAAAAAACqc/-F7INxhpJ2Q/s400/M6884_Front.JPG" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's 6884 Front</td></tr>
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This is another piece to add to Stephanie's "business" travel wardrobe. We bought the pattern at least a year ago, and the fabric was from my stash. It is a viscose crepe jersey originally purchased for a prom dress. It's a vibrant red, and very cozy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyKaUkQ1Dglbgr7GOk8QNkrVqugUtcPsGFC5gq3OP2mGI71RqJPEGkwa-RTC5SbQuM2l5z9RIT2qjbX3K8d0vUa_Z3oiKCNFVyTh9bB0QqIo3hirolbCkVbs7zpWSdo2baDyfI-1I3GLvV/s1600/M6884_Back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyKaUkQ1Dglbgr7GOk8QNkrVqugUtcPsGFC5gq3OP2mGI71RqJPEGkwa-RTC5SbQuM2l5z9RIT2qjbX3K8d0vUa_Z3oiKCNFVyTh9bB0QqIo3hirolbCkVbs7zpWSdo2baDyfI-1I3GLvV/s400/M6884_Back.JPG" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's 6884 Back</td></tr>
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It was quick to cut and sew after minimal pattern work: a nip for swayback, about 2.5" in additional hem length and what I would call a "lazy man's" FBA, which I think I saw on Marcy Tilton's blog some time ago. I added 1 1/4" to the front length in the vicinity of the bust points, and eased the surplus into the side seam. I admit that it was a lot of fabric to ease in a small amount of space, but the fabric was very stretchy, so it worked. On a more stable knit, I may have to do things differently. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EYbZ9HrieTE/Vf8OFLS6hKI/AAAAAAAACqM/aqB04WAdF3g/s1600/M6884_Neckband2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EYbZ9HrieTE/Vf8OFLS6hKI/AAAAAAAACqM/aqB04WAdF3g/s400/M6884_Neckband2.JPG" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's 6884 Neckline Band</td></tr>
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I recall seeing some reviews complaining the neckline was too low cut, so I added a little height when I expanded the bust. When I draped it on the dress form after sewing the fronts to the backs, I still worried that it was too low, so instead of the narrow hem as in the pattern instructions, I added a neckline band (cut on the cross-grain). It was stretched while sewn, so it should also help keep the neckline from drooping or gaping. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y200ePsIINQ/Vf8N_3HwpQI/AAAAAAAACps/4BZdE_jffCY/s1600/M6884_Sleeveband2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y200ePsIINQ/Vf8N_3HwpQI/AAAAAAAACps/4BZdE_jffCY/s400/M6884_Sleeveband2.JPG" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's 6884 sleeve band</td></tr>
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Another change included adding a band at the sleeve. After cutting the 3/4-length sleeve, it just seemed too short. It was also baggy, even though I cut the smallest size sleeve. Since Stephanie wasn't around to fit, I added 2" in length with a band cut on the cross-grain. It should be just tight enough to push up or down her forearm. You can see in the shots above and below that the sleeve was eased quite a bit when sewn to the band.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6RkeZMhsZi_PB5NawzZxlzo6GsACrXabnILzx8ck0AZdechJXm-W_YaA5iyTmuXCA5pmXKPz5se2MJXQtY1f3DFWH60ka51RxIjuQK5z_MaR7C7ZwHRjvkU-IG1WeJcYQhqfMa6nugbpQ/s1600/M6884_Sleeveband.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6RkeZMhsZi_PB5NawzZxlzo6GsACrXabnILzx8ck0AZdechJXm-W_YaA5iyTmuXCA5pmXKPz5se2MJXQtY1f3DFWH60ka51RxIjuQK5z_MaR7C7ZwHRjvkU-IG1WeJcYQhqfMa6nugbpQ/s400/M6884_Sleeveband.JPG" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's 6884</td></tr>
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The sleeve and neckline bands add some sporty touches to it, so I hope it doesn't look too casual for Stephanie's purposes.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrWsaHxx4f232lAVMTa_x-CXA0ytCD4sZkBkbWnX54xDLB3hTyPduFwKeRQdXdbrhW4i0QmYLlUXu-pfwIZldD49XdSVO42f_3uzvKHC8fpmxNJXvRHiFk39GzUMWcgHyzU5Ia4Eec72mW/s1600/M6884_Sam.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrWsaHxx4f232lAVMTa_x-CXA0ytCD4sZkBkbWnX54xDLB3hTyPduFwKeRQdXdbrhW4i0QmYLlUXu-pfwIZldD49XdSVO42f_3uzvKHC8fpmxNJXvRHiFk39GzUMWcgHyzU5Ia4Eec72mW/s640/M6884_Sam.JPG" width="316" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It is truly flattering on anyone!</td></tr>
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I look forward to making this one again.<br /><div>
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Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-16754775606344568512015-09-18T14:30:00.001-05:002015-09-18T14:31:07.702-05:00Le RefugeThe Huguenots were protestants who were persecuted and forced to flee France after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685. As a religious dispute, it was a bloody business, with executions, slavery and forced conversions. Many managed to escape and resettle elsewhere.<br />
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The word "refugee" was introduced to the English language as huge numbers of Huguenots moved into other countries. There were so many refugees, that some sources estimate over 90% of people in South East England have Huguenot ancestry.<br />
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Many of these refugees brought their skill in silk weaving to Britain, playing an integral role in the development of England's textile industry.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.huguenotsofspitalfields.org/media-files/image.raw?view=image&type=img&id=28" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.huguenotsofspitalfields.org/media-files/image.raw?view=image&type=img&id=28" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.huguenotsofspitalfields.org/">Spitalfields Silk</a></td></tr>
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Houses in Spitalfields display spools above the doors of homes where Huguenot silk weavers resided.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://hpmcq.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/fournier-street-spindle-2-bw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://hpmcq.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/fournier-street-spindle-2-bw.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://hpmcq.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/fournier-street-spindle-2-bw.jpg">Source</a></td></tr>
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The Huguenots brought a wealth of talent, also sharing their skills in printing, bleaching and dying. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.selvedge.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/spitalfields-silk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.selvedge.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/spitalfields-silk.jpg" height="640" width="464" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Museum of London, Spitalfields Silk; source: <a href="http://selvedge.org/">Selvedge.org</a></td></tr>
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One Huguenot family held the secret recipe for "Cardinal Red", ironically giving them a monopoly to supply cloth to the Vatican.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/72/Cardinal_de_Fleury.jpg/476px-Cardinal_de_Fleury.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/72/Cardinal_de_Fleury.jpg/476px-Cardinal_de_Fleury.jpg" width="506" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/72/Cardinal_de_Fleury.jpg/476px-Cardinal_de_Fleury.jpg">Source</a></td></tr>
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In addition to silk, a number of Huguenots set themselves up in calico printing. Peter Mauvillain was one of the most successful, a true pioneer of the industrial revolution who employed over 200 people.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.huguenotsofspitalfields.org/media-files/image.raw?view=image&type=img&id=24" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.huguenotsofspitalfields.org/media-files/image.raw?view=image&type=img&id=24" height="640" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is silk, not calico.<br />
<a href="http://www.huguenotsofspitalfields.org/">Museum of Spitalfields</a></td></tr>
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The Huguenots may be the original refugees, but they are only one example of a dynamic migrant group that worked hard to assimilate into their adopted society and create opportunities for prosperity -- for both themselves and their hosts. </div>
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Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-32358717560855046182015-09-10T09:55:00.001-05:002015-09-10T09:57:31.655-05:00A Classic White Shirt: McCall's 6124It's been tough getting myself back into the swing of sewing, at least real sewing. There have been plenty of t-shirts to shorten and taper, buttons to replace and small tears to repair, but I sensed real trouble ahead when my husband asked "Can you remove the tags from all my t-shirts and sew up the sides again with that machine I bought you?" OH. MY. WHAT?! If I didn't find an in-depth project if I left myself open for the mind numbing work of unpicking the side seams of a dozen t-shirts and over-locking them back together again!<br />
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To my rescue, the Pattern Review Sewing Bee. First challenge: a fitted, woven shirt. "That's no problem." I told myself. "I can whip up McCalls 6124 in a couple of days!" Of course it was Wednesday by the time I heard about it, but I easily convinced myself that I still had plenty of time to cut it out, sew it together and take pictures. After all, the fitting work was all behind me, and I had a long weekend ahead of me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/First_Full/M6124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/First_Full/M6124.jpg" height="320" width="302" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's 6124, roughly the view that I chose.</td></tr>
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Stephanie could use a classic white shirt to wear with her suit, after all. So, I found a white linen/rayon blend and started cutting it on Thursday. Then I got a phone call from a new client, with a "small project". That, along with sitting at the clinic with my son for three hours devoured my Friday (day and night). It still left me three days, though. How long can it take me to sew one shirt, with no pattern alterations required?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2xQ-pl8Unvkv7ExK5Pa-nEHRbJu2dWCdUDp3RhLijGqHfVFAhntNIU9viCZZyzMfL-FbAWsQbS3qptX_cxn3K_IyauWm-Wi4rDv9iKWtesRfEdHkTreaEbn1ZxCjPQX6Is9gSKitEU0u/s1600/IMG_1198.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2xQ-pl8Unvkv7ExK5Pa-nEHRbJu2dWCdUDp3RhLijGqHfVFAhntNIU9viCZZyzMfL-FbAWsQbS3qptX_cxn3K_IyauWm-Wi4rDv9iKWtesRfEdHkTreaEbn1ZxCjPQX6Is9gSKitEU0u/s320/IMG_1198.JPG" width="262" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">M6124 from 2014's waitress gig</td></tr>
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I'm not a fast sewer. I should know myself better by now. I enjoy sewing slowly and thoughtfully. That doesn't change when I'm on a deadline. So I drove my family crazy in three days, adding opalescent top stitching to the front placket and collar stand, as well as a few other changes. I barely finished in time to submit the project after taking a few photos. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCRuZvSmkGDC6hUkt5637sDjOfa5jOg2cJ8ENjSg7s5TVC9cfLxwWrp6w44KYbdLARDE1jBSAB0C0A7Sp9anavkRRCoifJU2gP0_svrmT3ZzRX5ID4UabK3IlzrzbaoCQ2m8LlquvusAbU/s1600/M_6124_Front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCRuZvSmkGDC6hUkt5637sDjOfa5jOg2cJ8ENjSg7s5TVC9cfLxwWrp6w44KYbdLARDE1jBSAB0C0A7Sp9anavkRRCoifJU2gP0_svrmT3ZzRX5ID4UabK3IlzrzbaoCQ2m8LlquvusAbU/s400/M_6124_Front.JPG" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">M6124 with the opalescent top-stitching on all seams.<br />
I decided to take it off the placket & collar stand in the end.</td></tr>
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When my daughter came for dinner on Sunday it didn't occur to me to have her pose in the shirt (the side seams were still open, anyway). So I when I started filling out the contest form, I was dismayed to see that the front and back photos have to be taken on a human. Damn!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOcXqawSPrOaYLpI7ggVAgUV3KTjMJ4ChqkWP4hUR0xg54NqY2kAX5OOa2KcUGtqWNFa-BYLZFTDnPIIhUzDKEhiKLgeWPkh2aQw9Pw5I7Or_qZ2epNOT3q-9e66SWkRNLD510l9W8clNO/s1600/M6124_Front2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOcXqawSPrOaYLpI7ggVAgUV3KTjMJ4ChqkWP4hUR0xg54NqY2kAX5OOa2KcUGtqWNFa-BYLZFTDnPIIhUzDKEhiKLgeWPkh2aQw9Pw5I7Or_qZ2epNOT3q-9e66SWkRNLD510l9W8clNO/s320/M6124_Front2.jpg" width="185" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the many off-center shots.</td></tr>
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So I wore it, while my husband took the photos. It actually fit me fairly well, even though Stephanie is three inches taller and nearly as many cup sizes bigger (I wore her bra). In the end, I changed into and out of the top for three rounds of photos. For some reason, Steve was unable to take a picture from the dead center, and they all had shadows and wrinkles that weren't really there. In one shot the left side of the collar turned up and the right side down. "Oh, I thought you did that on purpose." He replied. Really? Who wears a shirt collar like that?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyEK2ujXDHPJCk-fBwhn4AsFDIknvRORSr6op7cQh4pS8I9NRjeqiiYfonaz5bW9bTbrbDXOrVyrg4_ne6DsGWoAfvkp7aof4UdRCojt-wtDs94cuzYtQpLZxNPet1UmJnDYyJ1jV_nfSm/s1600/M6124_front3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyEK2ujXDHPJCk-fBwhn4AsFDIknvRORSr6op7cQh4pS8I9NRjeqiiYfonaz5bW9bTbrbDXOrVyrg4_ne6DsGWoAfvkp7aof4UdRCojt-wtDs94cuzYtQpLZxNPet1UmJnDYyJ1jV_nfSm/s320/M6124_front3.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally! Third try.</td></tr>
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So I do not expect to make it beyond round one, given the photos I submitted. That's okay. I realized that tight sewing deadlines don't do me any favors. I am just happy to get back into the swing of things with a real sewing project, and am looking for other wardrobe builders for my daughter, who will need a business capsule for an upcoming trip. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g5q-dpHIYUU/Ve5D8JCmGFI/AAAAAAAACkg/MM_96xXbu_I/s1600/M6124_Back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g5q-dpHIYUU/Ve5D8JCmGFI/AAAAAAAACkg/MM_96xXbu_I/s400/M6124_Back.JPG" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">M6124</td></tr>
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On to the review of McCall's 6124! I do like this pattern, with one exception. I'm not completely pleased that the front piece is slightly longer than the side front piece at the bust. I am accustomed to ease in the side front, instead, and it's just enough ease that it could appear that I cut it wrong or sewed it sloppily, instead of a nice shirred look. I managed to steam out most of the ease before sewing this time. If I make it again, I may add more length and shirr it. I know I said this last time, but I didn't want to mess with changing the pattern with a relatively short timeline.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7PQzsT8iccu236snkO3BkzqqndREGLEx0nBLD0CEd_ZdOkK5dD0iyAxnGdppOz6J6Y6-6Wwi_hwP25GxHkvBALShiszFMOk_rYowiUTsNqLSusiny7fj7cuzwttC4dqVj9H94OkqRNE8B/s1600/M_6124_Front3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7PQzsT8iccu236snkO3BkzqqndREGLEx0nBLD0CEd_ZdOkK5dD0iyAxnGdppOz6J6Y6-6Wwi_hwP25GxHkvBALShiszFMOk_rYowiUTsNqLSusiny7fj7cuzwttC4dqVj9H94OkqRNE8B/s400/M_6124_Front3.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With the top-stitching unpicked in the front placket and collar stand.</td></tr>
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The reason I chose this pattern initially, was the fitting potential with the princess seams. I still like that, and think it's a flattering cut. The two-piece sleeve (in the full length) also makes fitting easy and hangs naturally, as well as giving an easy placket solution. The cuffs are simple to execute, as well.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEi-PZ5Xm0JzEr6bIFJTSZRrZF-yLAM1cEJI-kT0G5tDN9vRUwYS0ZoHoF2YCknbVx97wuyHW8n8LV6zE1G1HVmuAvv4eszj0luW_tHjrLAiOBVZ58iQS3zc9XhakoJKFHj85znlKnSBt5/s1600/M6124_Inside_Sleeve2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEi-PZ5Xm0JzEr6bIFJTSZRrZF-yLAM1cEJI-kT0G5tDN9vRUwYS0ZoHoF2YCknbVx97wuyHW8n8LV6zE1G1HVmuAvv4eszj0luW_tHjrLAiOBVZ58iQS3zc9XhakoJKFHj85znlKnSBt5/s400/M6124_Inside_Sleeve2.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeve seams are folded and top-stitched.</td></tr>
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I changed the shape of the hem from a straight hem, to a slightly rounded hem, by using the center front/back as the center point of the radius. Stephanie will most likely wear this tucked into a skirt, so that design detail may be irrelevant to her, but it pleased me.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQF-qbD-pt5qxIOSoIXbdt41JqtS_JE8Rph5ss4BqYspezKPJq4R7BJkfnmqYru3iuFVmpE3arbBL-m7hzMZFDuqAZFsWmLdPTpxeBybkF2mSnefx_C9lBMyTIixyH8b_ua-_Jn0M5pd1/s1600/M6124_Inside_Side.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQF-qbD-pt5qxIOSoIXbdt41JqtS_JE8Rph5ss4BqYspezKPJq4R7BJkfnmqYru3iuFVmpE3arbBL-m7hzMZFDuqAZFsWmLdPTpxeBybkF2mSnefx_C9lBMyTIixyH8b_ua-_Jn0M5pd1/s400/M6124_Inside_Side.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Split side seam. I may add a gusset here, as I'm worried about strength.</td></tr>
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Per the contest rules, I finished the interior seams nicely (which I would have done anyway). My plan was to use flat felled seams throughout, but I found that a simple turned-in seam with top-stitching looks so much neater, so I did that with the sleeve seams and the side seams. I shortened the hem from 5/8" to 1/2", because a narrower hem looked better.</div>
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The fabric is a nice weight for a dress shirt, especially one that will be primarily worn under a jacket. I was inspired to use white after reading about <a href="http://sewtofit-andrea.blogspot.com/">Sew-to-Fit's</a> white shirt sew-along. It was difficult for me to sew with white, though. I can't recall a single item that I've ever sewn with plain white fabric. I wanted to paint it, or dye it or add some sort of embellishment. I considered slot seams or piping to jazz it up, and finally found a white solution for my need to bedazzle: opalescent top-stitching thread. It required a bit extra time to occasionally change the needle and thread, but it made me smile, and it adds some sparkle while remaining business-friendly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYUF0qnIr2oSdMkLADkp_wcL00FxxWAld8ApBP4cW5MUSaTRu5iAQZ5dckz_sm5MHGbnR-GBLuMEATH2O4984u3b3cpNn60c-tEj-3fiDDj8aYmKOAVRZYHVQs-FgUDf89jAqUtWOp_CR3/s1600/M6124_Inside_Sleeve.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYUF0qnIr2oSdMkLADkp_wcL00FxxWAld8ApBP4cW5MUSaTRu5iAQZ5dckz_sm5MHGbnR-GBLuMEATH2O4984u3b3cpNn60c-tEj-3fiDDj8aYmKOAVRZYHVQs-FgUDf89jAqUtWOp_CR3/s400/M6124_Inside_Sleeve.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Although I came to appreciate the whiteness of the shirt in the end, I still worried about one thing: pit stains. Any white shirt I've owned has come to an early demise from sweat stains. So I drafted a pair of dress shields in muslin. Sure, you can buy them, but with the pattern still laying about, I drafted a pair to fit perfectly inside this shirt. The unbleached muslin is tan enough that it doesn't show under the slightly transparent white fabric. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vXHRWCY5kAg/VfF6hIkTBuI/AAAAAAAACoU/8fh4xVoAzJ8/s1600/M_6124_DressShield.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vXHRWCY5kAg/VfF6hIkTBuI/AAAAAAAACoU/8fh4xVoAzJ8/s400/M_6124_DressShield.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I may remove some length before serging the edges.</td></tr>
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Tally-ho! I am back in the swing of sewing real clothes and I'm on to more basics for Stephanie. She will need at least one more blouse and I've had a wrap dress pattern with her name on it for a year. If I look busy enough, maybe no one will ask about t-shirt alterations. <br />
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Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-67277276539533084372015-08-17T09:07:00.001-05:002015-09-10T09:56:41.904-05:00I Heart Vogue 8793<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The best part about being underemployed is being able to spend time with my kids, especially during summer break. I am still amazed at how unproductive I can be!<br />
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My summer sewing projects have been sparse, to say the least. Any sewing must be accomplished within 15 minute increments, which can be frustrating, but I keep reminding myself that being interrupted by a game of cards with my son or an impromptu discussion about global economic issues with my daughter is really a gift that I will soon miss.<br />
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I did manage to clear out some clutter, which came uncharacteristically easily to me after sorting through my dad's house in May. The weeks of nightmares following that experience gave me plenty of motivation to clear out loads of my own belongings. Marie Kondo's book was just the ticket to get me going. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHxnAUMA-s88r3l2Kjvgo35XRjyas4j9O8t-JorkEGyIGjYT2exYsKnNTB32QNBVfEyW7OSryWy9wQ1l6ZhZOYhM6d7oRJPI_GyOkhvCT6bxBCikGsz9dwa1aY0-8vNM8FSMyDcHMILEO8/s1600/drawer2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHxnAUMA-s88r3l2Kjvgo35XRjyas4j9O8t-JorkEGyIGjYT2exYsKnNTB32QNBVfEyW7OSryWy9wQ1l6ZhZOYhM6d7oRJPI_GyOkhvCT6bxBCikGsz9dwa1aY0-8vNM8FSMyDcHMILEO8/s400/drawer2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still room for more?</td></tr>
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Her recommendation to never stack clothes in drawers is easy to manage. I'm happy to say that my family readily followed my lead after seeing how lovely my closet looked. I will admit that I have not yet touched my fabric or pattern stash, however. It is on my list, but not a high priority.<br />
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Thanks to her eye-opening philosophy, I quickly realized that most woven tops do not "spark joy," and I am most comfortable wearing knits.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My thoughts exactly!</td></tr>
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Having plenty of space and need for more knit tops, I ordered two knits from Sawyer Brook to play with Vogue 8793. They are both rayon jersey, but very different hands. The feel and drape of the navy and white Milly was my favorite, so I started with it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N90-0Odmeng/VYi9Gr5zcGI/AAAAAAAACeo/rMuo_526rBg/s1600/milly.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N90-0Odmeng/VYi9Gr5zcGI/AAAAAAAACeo/rMuo_526rBg/s400/milly.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I like the wrong side (left) as much as the right side (right)!</td></tr>
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It is very soft, and very drapey. Maybe too drapey for a t-shirt, but is quite comfortable to wear. I added an inch in length at the bust line and an armhole dart after seeing the wrinkles from the first V8793. I really love wearing this top, and the lightweight nature of the fabric was perfect for the European heatwave that we endured on our vacation. I have plans to take it in at the side seams about 1/2"-3/4", as the drapey is crossing over into dumpy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGqAFf16oPYdibkZT7SLZx3mNspP8e9adZR2xnAfcb5FZ3NZgFLM6O17Km_Y75P3dUxPJ8gvtZBT13Dz0BOkYIFEaKkBWPhzlHsHRt3V0EEQPk1sUjSPEjIN54dEq0HlcnPSpfgYJd186/s1600/Brussels_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGqAFf16oPYdibkZT7SLZx3mNspP8e9adZR2xnAfcb5FZ3NZgFLM6O17Km_Y75P3dUxPJ8gvtZBT13Dz0BOkYIFEaKkBWPhzlHsHRt3V0EEQPk1sUjSPEjIN54dEq0HlcnPSpfgYJd186/s640/Brussels_1.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As seen in Brussels, paired with red capris. My son makes a point of making silly faces in most photos.</td></tr>
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Even though I pack light, I brought plenty of clothes for our 17 days of travel. Most of the tops I packed were too heavy for the unusually hot weather. Luckily, we had plenty of laundry facilities along the way, so I could wear my new tops multiple times.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqg43Lts1IDidrzJsyKnXt5NJ1FTcfWdLd5s06Kr3hOUfYiwgF2Zeq_l9o9iwsBDhLcqfPdX3-nRy-Z9n04lF2sUSneccl_7aFt5yaNY4F9rbbOObANqaOph9Q3dTAcFqp-r2a8pkB8FB9/s1600/salzburg_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqg43Lts1IDidrzJsyKnXt5NJ1FTcfWdLd5s06Kr3hOUfYiwgF2Zeq_l9o9iwsBDhLcqfPdX3-nRy-Z9n04lF2sUSneccl_7aFt5yaNY4F9rbbOObANqaOph9Q3dTAcFqp-r2a8pkB8FB9/s640/salzburg_1.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think this was during the Sound of Music Tour outside Salzburg.<br />
I guess my son likes his green shirt as much as I like my navy one.</td></tr>
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Knit number two turned out to be perfect for V8793. Also a viscose jersey with Elastane, it has about 15% stretch and is fairly lightweight. Even with 3/4 sleeves, it was comfortable in the heat and the multitude of colors on a black background gives it versatility. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkVbeAsAXFGlbCqnWTfau3WY8dzQ1uZmLDdgf5gvR0y4FOQEByKupAj3UzKu_YRUP33fFbOWpKXhEhJJssoKut_OBT1mborZVUnC2U8xHIBq5qEb8jkO0nmdkxyWHnNFyvdafLDqfQDU82/s1600/v8793_elektra.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkVbeAsAXFGlbCqnWTfau3WY8dzQ1uZmLDdgf5gvR0y4FOQEByKupAj3UzKu_YRUP33fFbOWpKXhEhJJssoKut_OBT1mborZVUnC2U8xHIBq5qEb8jkO0nmdkxyWHnNFyvdafLDqfQDU82/s640/v8793_elektra.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love the colors in the "Electra" print! </td></tr>
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Also lengthened by 1" at the bust, this time I tried my hand at the French dart. The busy print hides the dart well, and it shapes the top perfectly. I took several pictures of the dart, but it is really hard to see. This was my first French dart, and I am now a devotee. I will be using it frequently!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gjct7ABuMVM/Vc4h-lVSb5I/AAAAAAAACgc/Crz0PCMOZlM/s1600/Brugge_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gjct7ABuMVM/Vc4h-lVSb5I/AAAAAAAACgc/Crz0PCMOZlM/s400/Brugge_1.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Brugge with black jeans and pink cashmere. We were so relieved to get some cooler weather!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And perfect for relaxing in Bruxelles after a sweaty trip from Brugge. Miss that North Sea breeze already.</td></tr>
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We had a wonderful, exhausting trip, averaging 6-8 miles of walking per day, which made the comfy clothes a necessity. We started in London then flew to Munich to meet my daughter, who flew from Paris. After working our way around Bavaria and Tirol by car -- with me at the wheel of a stick-shift -- we headed to Belgium and the Netherlands by train. My husband and I loved it so much that we checked real estate listings in many cities along the way! </div>
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My daughter tells me she now has "reverse homesickness" for France, and I am starting to believe I feel the same way about the places we visited, as well. My summer is wrapping up, with my daughter moving back to college this weekend and my son returning to school tomorrow. I should have more time for sewing, but miss them already.</div>
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Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-33272796995800089292015-06-08T18:00:00.003-05:002015-09-10T09:56:41.899-05:00A Long Dry Patch Interrupted by Vogue 8793<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I rarely make New Years resolutions, other than the "get back in shape" pledge necessary after an indulgent holiday season. This year, I privately resolved to focus my sewing energy on improving my skills. I resolved to only spend my valuable time in 2015 creating "couture" pieces with intricate hand sewing and custom fitting. After finishing my daughter's orchestra dress, I thought quite highly of my sewing skills. My hubris was punished quickly, with the sewing gods dropping the most annoying projects in my lap: zipper repairs, alterations, and other mindless mending. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV-Q18vQx3ESuA7uAyiJlK0nVg4dLRToT2iwHE1EpfX1EwZ9YDV3x1O4pMHbyeNwE8mRTyZp4Egs79mrAfaKao49y217zox9jwOFStdVBHG3W2G1tJSO6qmYK8LTWrYT6eRag2KHClU-E_/s1600/IMG_0140.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV-Q18vQx3ESuA7uAyiJlK0nVg4dLRToT2iwHE1EpfX1EwZ9YDV3x1O4pMHbyeNwE8mRTyZp4Egs79mrAfaKao49y217zox9jwOFStdVBHG3W2G1tJSO6qmYK8LTWrYT6eRag2KHClU-E_/s320/IMG_0140.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My first sewing project of the year was replacing the zipper<br />in my step-father's "Squall" jacket from the 1980s. </td></tr>
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Early in the spring, I finally started a muslin of a sport coat that my husband had hinted about for some time. After a couple of fittings, it still hangs on my dress form. I lost interest after he came home from Hong Kong with a mini-wardrobe custom made for him in one day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1bodxOJZ0JTJA_d791m8wnZGiafKLSiMdZ_MhrszkcXq0w12PAvYcyZCJny7kb46Xr1QZRBQSobPtQCxBjskIG2yStuOr73WR9UB06Rc8mKBGqyf07FYTm-pKDpzotwHMtWs3Yxkp0AAd/s1600/sportcoat_muslin.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1bodxOJZ0JTJA_d791m8wnZGiafKLSiMdZ_MhrszkcXq0w12PAvYcyZCJny7kb46Xr1QZRBQSobPtQCxBjskIG2yStuOr73WR9UB06Rc8mKBGqyf07FYTm-pKDpzotwHMtWs3Yxkp0AAd/s320/sportcoat_muslin.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, it has hung on that dress form for 3 months!<br />It's beginning to look very sad.</td></tr>
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My own wardrobe requirements have become very casual, consisting of knit tops and yoga pants or jeans (I work from home). Nothing to get me very excited about sewing for myself, especially since RTW fits me pretty well. Why sew my own t-shirt?<br />
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Months ago I purchased the Tilton sisters' Craftsy class on "The Ultimate T-Shirt". It was entertaining to watch the Tiltons sew a simple tee, but it took me quite a while to finally give it a go myself. <br />
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A nice piece of cotton interlock hanging in my sewing closet nudged me. The color seemed a little "off" to me, and I spent several weeks thinking about surface design options that would make the color more pleasing. Painting? Overdying? Stenciling? Would the surface techniques work on a knit? Or will it look like a teenager's art project? After hours experimenting on the dusty purple/lilac/plum, I finally decided it was fine as-is and just sewed the shirt. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYSc49q-L38WZZXLpZVE57YGubTwQzs9jJRy-tvMjeSmd3n1nzdsQMj3uhLDhhTwj5SkDSzg-9XFUWflpYWN0v-NIiaOz4ey8tLDhFrtHgqc7oa6y05ktRTYQBGoXozb2tgj8Dwej9Vrlu/s1600/IMG_0825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYSc49q-L38WZZXLpZVE57YGubTwQzs9jJRy-tvMjeSmd3n1nzdsQMj3uhLDhhTwj5SkDSzg-9XFUWflpYWN0v-NIiaOz4ey8tLDhFrtHgqc7oa6y05ktRTYQBGoXozb2tgj8Dwej9Vrlu/s320/IMG_0825.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tell tale signs of an amateur dyer. At least the<br />defects were only visible at the selvages.</td></tr>
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While cutting, I noticed a strange color change at the selvage and realized that I must have dyed this fabric myself a few years ago. I don't remember doing it, but I do remember buying white interlock and some fiber reactive dye as part of an aborted SWAP. Hmm. Shh!<br />
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I like the end product, though I should have fitted it better. It didn't <i>appear</i> to need a dart before I put the sleeves in, but <i>after</i> the sleeves were in, it seems to need a bust dart! I didn't put the funky neckband in my shirt per the pattern, rather I followed the flat neckband in the Craftsy class. It's a great scoop neckline, and I can see making this shirt again (with a little more room in the bust and a dart).<br />
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The pattern seems to run big (I feel that way about most of the Big 4 patterns). I cut a size small, even though I measured larger (I don't recall how much larger). The small is perfect for my shoulders and waist, but more room in the bust wouldn't hurt. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1vgpyHETiNM/VXYPjEV4EEI/AAAAAAAACaE/iPjdG33Q1gc/s1600/tshirt_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1vgpyHETiNM/VXYPjEV4EEI/AAAAAAAACaE/iPjdG33Q1gc/s400/tshirt_2.JPG" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An "action shot" of me walking. I thought my son<br />was finished shooting, but this was actually the only<br />decent shot.</td></tr>
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It came together quickly, and I can see myself making a few more of these. I may or may not do the funky neckline, or mix colors and patterns as the Tiltons do. I love their style, I am just not sure that it's <i>my </i>style. I'd like for it to be my style, but I am shy about pattern mixing.<br />
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As for the Craftsy class, it was entertaining, but I honestly didn't learn anything new. It is well-suited for a beginner. I do believe that I am addicted to Craftsy. I pledged not to buy anymore classes, and made it a few months before breaking down and buying one of Suzy Furrer's pattern making classes.<br />
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Apart from alterations and mending, this has been my only sewing project since the fleece jacket. Life and death have gotten in the way this spring. Sadly, my dad died in April, yet there has been little time for grieving, with all the work required to wrap up his estate and affairs. We spent an exhausting week clearing out his house, which had previously been my grandparents' home. It was a week in the Twilight Zone for me, finding things that belonged to my great-grandparents, as well: pictures, report cards from 1908, utility bills from 1945 and one treasure -- Spadea patterns still in the mailing envelope from 1961. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iMrcdVDkmFc/VXYOqWF_cDI/AAAAAAAACbI/9xp5RydbNoA/s1600/pattern_envelope.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="172" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iMrcdVDkmFc/VXYOqWF_cDI/AAAAAAAACbI/9xp5RydbNoA/s400/pattern_envelope.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My daughter knew I would be excited to open this envelope, untouched<br /> and hiding in the dining room buffet since 1961.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxXnCldjemQ_Tgwe9tQMV4LGJM7K3SeUOHQq5xkj6AkL8NY0YpN36NZ-6iNlhgBf5mAiQaquFWatjb9z85vGbyd4YP0TdqKJD5enwe4_QzJj6QxQwjtOs1INS5dp4vaQE40fMpv_EML03v/s1600/Spadea_Patterns.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxXnCldjemQ_Tgwe9tQMV4LGJM7K3SeUOHQq5xkj6AkL8NY0YpN36NZ-6iNlhgBf5mAiQaquFWatjb9z85vGbyd4YP0TdqKJD5enwe4_QzJj6QxQwjtOs1INS5dp4vaQE40fMpv_EML03v/s400/Spadea_Patterns.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spadea "Dinah Shore" patterns, the sixth is a large lace collar.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hgCEsMkk0q4/VXYOqRNNbAI/AAAAAAAACbA/oFsMEz_LPUQ/s1600/Dinah_Note.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hgCEsMkk0q4/VXYOqRNNbAI/AAAAAAAACbA/oFsMEz_LPUQ/s400/Dinah_Note.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apparently Dinah Shore patterns were very popular.</td></tr>
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We filled a large dumpster after donating all the furniture and working appliances to a domestic violence shelter and begging relatives to take some of the "keepsakes" home. Like me, most of my cousins are in a minimalist frame of mind. We did encounter several dumpster divers who were happy to cull through the cast-offs in search of treasure. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG1cK5sGoL3ETwO3Vrzmpilmg6ef_sgfROgfq2caMJQct8ubP25JOh-6duacH0BhfSyhEBnYJRJhY5Y-JvJlSKUc9fRpbIsC9f_5PeroQlP31nM7HIotMHL4Cc3Qqd0OPSgoWvvTHHheam/s1600/dumpster.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG1cK5sGoL3ETwO3Vrzmpilmg6ef_sgfROgfq2caMJQct8ubP25JOh-6duacH0BhfSyhEBnYJRJhY5Y-JvJlSKUc9fRpbIsC9f_5PeroQlP31nM7HIotMHL4Cc3Qqd0OPSgoWvvTHHheam/s400/dumpster.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The three amigos, REALLY happy to be finished. It's hard to see just how big that dumpster was.</td></tr>
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The experience of hauling off refrigerators that haven't worked in 15 years and monogrammed bowling balls belonging to someone who died in 1969 has spurred me to think about downsizing my own junk. I don't want my heirs to dispose of closets, cabinets and cartons full of fabric. I own very few patterns that anyone would be excited to find in 2060.<br />
<br />Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-56234053861438262862015-04-01T21:19:00.003-05:002015-04-01T21:23:06.711-05:00Vogue 8932: Fleeced<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Way back in early January I decided I needed a fleece jacket - Patagonia-style - with <i>nice</i> fleece (real PolarTec). So I found myself perusing millyardage.com, and went a little crazy ordering fleece. I don't usually get excited about sewing fleece, but it was January, after all. The quality of the fleece from Mill Yardage is superb - so nice that I actually do get excited about fleece. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the many fleeces I now own.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>"This would be a great project for Pattern Review's Activewear contest!"</i> So I bought McCall's 5252 "6 Great Looks, 1 Easy Pattern." Honestly, I'm not sure there's one great look in the bunch.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/M5252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img alt="McCalls 5252" border="0" src="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/M5252.jpg" height="320" title="" width="303" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I had hopes I could turn one of the jackets into something that would work for me.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Then I ordered several matching zippers in fuschia. And waited, and waited, and waited. Finally, by the end of January, the zippers arrived. Too late for Pattern Review. Dang, I wish I could find zippers locally!</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.artfire.com/uploads/product/6/646/1646/1001646/1001646/large/five_hot_pink_4_inch_zippers_4795c5ab.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Fucshia zippers" border="0" src="http://www.artfire.com/uploads/product/6/646/1646/1001646/1001646/large/five_hot_pink_4_inch_zippers_4795c5ab.jpg" height="294" title="" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">In the meantime, I realized I don't want (or need) another baggy fleece jacket that I would only wear around the house. Would Vogue 8932 work with fleece? The pattern recommends stretch leather, ponte or boiled wool. </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Okay, how about a nice sweater striae fleece? </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/V8932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Vogue 8932" border="0" src="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/V8932.jpg" height="400" title="" width="378" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"How are you going to put a zipper into that?" My husband asks. Vogue 8932</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Well, it worked and it didn't. First of all, let me say that I love this pattern and I <b>will</b> be making it again. Just not with fleece. Or maybe a mix of fleece and something else. Yes, I am a sucker for Vogue patterns. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/newsletters/img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/add_img/V8932.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/newsletters/img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/add_img/V8932.gif" height="88" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I made version A -- regular seams, with button closure.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The interesting design lines of this jacket were begging to be shown off, so I played them up with extra stitching, <i>a la</i> </span><a href="http://madamesewandsew.blogspot.com/2015/03/vogue-1378-encore.html" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Vogue 1378</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">. I initially thought about making versions B, which is stitched with the seams facing the public side, but the fleece was just too thick. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFDklCWd5prlcNiH1Z4z3u51jwTDgPrhlEyelIVpnaIFpi8NqT-uZBCUKlhJAMUiQ4fTwH7JQ5J4FpHIYONV84B62oi6937PsAT8khCXXqBiOEsQK35regVpIxXFr8Dhc996gH2TY1ZvpZ/s1600/Vogue8932_back_detail.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><img alt="Vogue 8932, back detail" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFDklCWd5prlcNiH1Z4z3u51jwTDgPrhlEyelIVpnaIFpi8NqT-uZBCUKlhJAMUiQ4fTwH7JQ5J4FpHIYONV84B62oi6937PsAT8khCXXqBiOEsQK35regVpIxXFr8Dhc996gH2TY1ZvpZ/s1600/Vogue8932_back_detail.JPG" height="400" title="" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back detail, Vogue 8932</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">To highlight the interesting seaming, I top-stitched 1/4" on each side of most seam lines. It is fun looking AND it's a good way to force the seam allowance flat. The side seams and shoulder seams were overlocked on my Bernina 930.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjONriSS4_U-Lvq-21Zelj4iaL45YPdTQgJcKSDAnCR-krDC7KTy-TkPL2rnrjy5t8GZaHaXluONp9jxGWVXYdTHEzFarbyCQ_vA40UZJmtv5laup_rU3aVMcyQDZiwElGsBKcSgnBX4dlr/s1600/Vogue8932_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Vogue 8932, front detail" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjONriSS4_U-Lvq-21Zelj4iaL45YPdTQgJcKSDAnCR-krDC7KTy-TkPL2rnrjy5t8GZaHaXluONp9jxGWVXYdTHEzFarbyCQ_vA40UZJmtv5laup_rU3aVMcyQDZiwElGsBKcSgnBX4dlr/s1600/Vogue8932_2.JPG" height="400" title="" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front Detail, Vogue 8932</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjONriSS4_U-Lvq-21Zelj4iaL45YPdTQgJcKSDAnCR-krDC7KTy-TkPL2rnrjy5t8GZaHaXluONp9jxGWVXYdTHEzFarbyCQ_vA40UZJmtv5laup_rU3aVMcyQDZiwElGsBKcSgnBX4dlr/s1600/Vogue8932_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Fearing a stitched buttonhole in fleece would quickly stretch out of shape, I made bound buttonholes with evergreen Ultra Suede. The "graphite" fleece has a bit of green in it, and they look great together. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGnh_5LcXTBJtTPVeigaiceG49nXmtGGfhw6qJo_EXNC2AL9NR5KF0-A2WNBvwHdCtdCfKKrIrwWkJOayiZE50JpOXCjIN7RZoMSRghsyx1su0dU_JVTPPjq-RsA_-y2li9FCck211IRzp/s1600/Vogue8932_3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><img alt="Bound buttonhole close-up" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGnh_5LcXTBJtTPVeigaiceG49nXmtGGfhw6qJo_EXNC2AL9NR5KF0-A2WNBvwHdCtdCfKKrIrwWkJOayiZE50JpOXCjIN7RZoMSRghsyx1su0dU_JVTPPjq-RsA_-y2li9FCck211IRzp/s1600/Vogue8932_3.JPG" height="320" title="" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Triangular Bound Buttonhole. The buttons are grey-green and the buttonhole is green.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The rounded front called for a fun shape, so I went with triangle buttonholes. They were surprisingly quick and easy with a homemade template. I will be using that method again. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJm5SNCngVoWEIryeKxJHMbRkXJMONseZEJGPnTOXwjazpArmwzRZtm595v0lN5o80HwYndr6b7YEJ_NAZdREdNpfnxE0WzO7Br_rAFz8Njq0TG_f-GH_ojAN9ddixv9ZvPOm4WX8bqpN/s1600/Vogue8932_front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJm5SNCngVoWEIryeKxJHMbRkXJMONseZEJGPnTOXwjazpArmwzRZtm595v0lN5o80HwYndr6b7YEJ_NAZdREdNpfnxE0WzO7Br_rAFz8Njq0TG_f-GH_ojAN9ddixv9ZvPOm4WX8bqpN/s1600/Vogue8932_front.JPG" height="400" width="255" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyWEVLZSYPEvrxykiDHBEqGpNOUH6esn7StPrvsWE46iBtDeNdqufO2Asis-WnGman-vuJ8tk_fnKJwJtb8uIJax1m5YYRPjI0mHxoDjcREoUI5fGAdstsgdbAQoS0FHeiNMBspPTV_p9/s1600/Vogue8932_back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Vogue 8932, back" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyWEVLZSYPEvrxykiDHBEqGpNOUH6esn7StPrvsWE46iBtDeNdqufO2Asis-WnGman-vuJ8tk_fnKJwJtb8uIJax1m5YYRPjI0mHxoDjcREoUI5fGAdstsgdbAQoS0FHeiNMBspPTV_p9/s1600/Vogue8932_back.JPG" height="320" title="" width="244" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 8932, back view. The back is shorter than the front.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So far, I love it. Then I got to the facings. The fleece was just too thick to use self fabric facings. I should have used something thinner (let's say, oh I don't know, maybe the Ultra Suede that I have yards and yards of), but I just liked the idea of fleece on the inside. I considered no facings, but the back needed the extra weight of a facing, and the lovely neckline would probably sag without a facing. Unfortunately, the manner in which the right front overlaps the left front results in four layers of fleece across my bust, giving the impression of a uniboob.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">For the sleeves, I omitted the facings and used a bias strip of Ultra Suede to bind the edge. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Tomz2dlKRWceqQbFJD-0KU_fCrCxavU5JmEOhF3tPgjC9KyFPlaMdJAngm9iBo3kHFpfDiEBze4_jhb2zkEaLqCuQ6WvPPIQh1VANOYImJtPqmr3LHD0ZJTjHgDoZ_JJ8_MXpFepAcac/s1600/Vogue8932_side.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Vogue 8932, side" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Tomz2dlKRWceqQbFJD-0KU_fCrCxavU5JmEOhF3tPgjC9KyFPlaMdJAngm9iBo3kHFpfDiEBze4_jhb2zkEaLqCuQ6WvPPIQh1VANOYImJtPqmr3LHD0ZJTjHgDoZ_JJ8_MXpFepAcac/s1600/Vogue8932_side.JPG" height="320" title="" width="166" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The shoulders concerned me some, since the sleeve cap is eased and the fleece is bulky and generally un-easable. This fleece had plenty of stretch, so it worked. Although the cap looks a little flat in the photo, I don't notice it at all when I wear it. I probably should have left a little more seam allowance to help give it structure.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I made very few alterations to the pattern: cut a 14 through the shoulders and bust, expanding out 1/2" at the waist and about 3/4" at the hip. Since the back hem sits above the widest part of my hips, it was easy to fit. I wanted to add pockets, but I just couldn't decide on a good place to put them. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">All in all, I really like this jacket. It's a great style, and it's very comfortable. It's versatile, looking great with jeans or dressed up. Although I didn't take any photos, I have worn it many times, once to the symphony. Can you imagine? Fleece at the symphony? Only in Arkansas, I guess.</span></div>
Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-39551156174102930692015-03-06T18:10:00.003-06:002015-03-06T18:11:00.525-06:00Conjuring Spring with McCall's 6513Once I finished Vogue 1378 (view B), I realized that I needed a long top to cover my behind. Although they are not billed as leggings, they felt like leggings, and I felt a little exposed. I am still working off the weight I gained during my bathroom renovations.<br />
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Since snow was falling, I relied solely on my stash. My first plan was to sew the top (view A) in Vogue 1378 with some ITY purchased a few years ago. Unfortunately, it called for more than 2 yards of 60" fabric, and I had just about 1.5 yard. So I pulled something else out of my stash: McCall's 6513. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/newsletters/img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/add_img/M6513.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/newsletters/img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/add_img/M6513.gif" height="257" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's 6513: I made view B</td></tr>
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Well, I thought I had a yard-and-a-half, but it was actually much less AND the fabric had been written on, which meant that I had to be creative cutting the pattern pieces. So pattern-matching was out of the question.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwknrgp4ZyP0YVIuLwKlaQ7vKgTeCNiUKwBePXs8RBtwHqwpK7UhqE05yFbn67f8tyqb9fABbRdwJUt9OJRrys-nvYPb56rtDRAtEdM8KOySOq1y1rDELRgnxN6e21bQl-P4MwqaQZsD6x/s1600/WTF.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwknrgp4ZyP0YVIuLwKlaQ7vKgTeCNiUKwBePXs8RBtwHqwpK7UhqE05yFbn67f8tyqb9fABbRdwJUt9OJRrys-nvYPb56rtDRAtEdM8KOySOq1y1rDELRgnxN6e21bQl-P4MwqaQZsD6x/s1600/WTF.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I couldn't even remove the ink with alcohol. What is that?<br />
I probably got an end-of-bolt discount on this, but it's been so long I've forgotten.</td></tr>
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The pattern went together quickly. My only problems were with the fabric. This was my first rodeo with ITY, and I had a heck of a time hog-tying it. It is slippery. I used clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams, and attempted to use clear elastic for the sleeve ruching (per the instructions). The elastic was Hobby Lobby store brand, and it was just so crappy that it broke every time I tried to stretch it more than 10%. <br />
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Let me interrupt this broadcast for a rant. THIS is the real reason I don't shop Hobby Lobby anymore: their poor quality private label products! I'm sure they bring in bigger margins, but I refuse to spend my valuable time sewing poor quality merchandise. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyajAOFbSLKhp2VL1-XQhxc1S9Ofp96IOI9ZUoA6SPXoc7Os7yivhGWqjQ3-E08o0IAwnIqhyphenhyphen0PtZaKwlYUkTyuPCvQC-m_UkEyuKgyYmYWCtE4csqcxpNcvtAEp6HKe_JYWTe7h2GwZEs/s1600/wrap_side.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyajAOFbSLKhp2VL1-XQhxc1S9Ofp96IOI9ZUoA6SPXoc7Os7yivhGWqjQ3-E08o0IAwnIqhyphenhyphen0PtZaKwlYUkTyuPCvQC-m_UkEyuKgyYmYWCtE4csqcxpNcvtAEp6HKe_JYWTe7h2GwZEs/s1600/wrap_side.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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Anyway, back to sewing. I remedied the lack of clear elastic the old-fashioned way, by gathering the fabric with long stitches. It doesn't stretch, but I'm not convinced it is necessary.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGDIMlUVLY1Knq4Q8t8PtGbow-OVXn0CNbO5Q4RapdzeCpOyv_GkgoCItfj4rwC88XPJtZfa2Tq_khddhXet7XNg4WMvbOU3dINLbXMNmIZ1c3SYEx_0d1432tIr_nJltJGdtvAIng1KP8/s1600/wrap_sleeve.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGDIMlUVLY1Knq4Q8t8PtGbow-OVXn0CNbO5Q4RapdzeCpOyv_GkgoCItfj4rwC88XPJtZfa2Tq_khddhXet7XNg4WMvbOU3dINLbXMNmIZ1c3SYEx_0d1432tIr_nJltJGdtvAIng1KP8/s1600/wrap_sleeve.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeve ruching</td></tr>
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My only other difficulty involved the neckline. I rejected the pattern's instructions to sew a simple hem, envisioning gaping and buckling. I tried two options before settling on "bias strips" (really cut on the cross grain), stretched just a little bit while sewing. My first fail involved twill tape, which I have seen on some wrap dresses. The second attempt was with the awful aforementioned elastic. Both were klutzy looking.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUdZuIO2GV8wFExAess29L8sQwdcuv14e-VGAeKpleQGiz4uFXiYr9FtJb7QdZPpXOv5ji-9Z1c31DpL1eanjo3FIG0-l2vVy6gma9cRgSmo_5DKqi44jffZBG9Pj7WjL3fkcdsFeOJ7Kq/s1600/neckline4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUdZuIO2GV8wFExAess29L8sQwdcuv14e-VGAeKpleQGiz4uFXiYr9FtJb7QdZPpXOv5ji-9Z1c31DpL1eanjo3FIG0-l2vVy6gma9cRgSmo_5DKqi44jffZBG9Pj7WjL3fkcdsFeOJ7Kq/s1600/neckline4.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neckline inside: strip cut on the cross grain and stretched while sewn to the neckline. <br />Turned and topstitched with a twin needle.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiFqpyrq0cP9EP-dI16xeMOdqg4Ng65oY4R46YHvVy4aM1CUi8RU_Fao9UMQYo7vNQo3iw_Jbgkz8trh1_8q0H9VnttmLEY4_VT6JkKUmkgGVVJxhv7XqDMik6stm3w2MSPJrhm9qPHfTk/s1600/neckline5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiFqpyrq0cP9EP-dI16xeMOdqg4Ng65oY4R46YHvVy4aM1CUi8RU_Fao9UMQYo7vNQo3iw_Jbgkz8trh1_8q0H9VnttmLEY4_VT6JkKUmkgGVVJxhv7XqDMik6stm3w2MSPJrhm9qPHfTk/s1600/neckline5.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neckline public side: there was a little rippling, but once pressed it was fine.</td></tr>
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As with most wrap tops, it is very figure flattering. The ruching across the midriff in view B (achieved with gathering stitches) was perfect for helping to camouflage that extra little bit of flesh I've been carrying. <br />
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A few reviewers of this pattern mentioned that the top was too long, but I think the length is just right for me (see "cover my behind," above). Also, I made no adjustments to the neckline, and I was pleased with the coverage it provides. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaONPAZkji-ew0MdcO3NbXtgTWP_S_wqrFT4aCqQJFPDAaWdKWDdtkXyIzIhJd8qdM-7h8hEmEx1uvR27cTGQBfCqavsqoiyWJXPBXijxcM0mcYUWWUK1YCKsb_QPGa-rUaguwkEJg0WqG/s1600/wrap_back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaONPAZkji-ew0MdcO3NbXtgTWP_S_wqrFT4aCqQJFPDAaWdKWDdtkXyIzIhJd8qdM-7h8hEmEx1uvR27cTGQBfCqavsqoiyWJXPBXijxcM0mcYUWWUK1YCKsb_QPGa-rUaguwkEJg0WqG/s1600/wrap_back.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It covers <i>my</i> behind, too.</td></tr>
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It was a quick project to whip up, and I was eager to wear it immediately. Unfortunately, I was also eager to take it off -- I hated the feel of the polyester ITY against my skin! So it hung in my closet for a few weeks, and I pouted. Funny thing, when I tried it on again last week, I really liked it. It seemed to fit me better, and pull less around the middle. I've also lost a few pounds, so maybe it wasn't the polyester after all. Either way, I ordered some rayon ITY to give it another go.<br />
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The green and black fabric doesn't really <i>match</i> the wine color of the pants, but it coordinates well enough. [I'm sure my daughter will tell me otherwise, but I like it.] It also looks great with my many black pants, and it matches my breakfast almost perfectly. Unfortunately, it's still too cold to wear it.<br />
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Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-36502394139930948662015-03-02T10:59:00.002-06:002015-03-02T10:59:36.092-06:00Vogue 1378, an Encore<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I <i>loved</i> <a href="http://madamesewandsew.blogspot.com/2014_01_01_archive.html" target="_blank">my first pair of Vogue 1378</a> pants, and can't believe it took me a full year to find fabric for a second pair. If not for my very stringent fabric selection criteria*, I may have a dozen of these by now! I like my second pair even better than the first. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
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<a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/newsletters/img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/add_img/V1378.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/newsletters/img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/add_img/V1378.gif" height="195" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The wonderful design lines of these pants are achieved through lapped seams that are top stitched with a straight stitch. Yes, a straight stitch. I had my doubts about that straight stitch the first time around. Those doubts were confirmed after wearing the pants a few times. Pulling them over my hips resulted in several popped stitches. Perhaps I should have made them looser ;-). So in round two, I used a twin needle to stitch the lapped seams. I really love the result.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgliwiTzXRphEQG6WLYlJaxyJRd82ytgklUS3vyIfxsri9HWdi__uIiTCwRlbv-ntEqrLtjGJOkBLx-9Srknabqsecw5lBbY8EmMwTSRxWu0mhkGeIQ-dUdtYH0_coX8RAuJzA-FcEGrYoa/s1600/V1378_4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgliwiTzXRphEQG6WLYlJaxyJRd82ytgklUS3vyIfxsri9HWdi__uIiTCwRlbv-ntEqrLtjGJOkBLx-9Srknabqsecw5lBbY8EmMwTSRxWu0mhkGeIQ-dUdtYH0_coX8RAuJzA-FcEGrYoa/s1600/V1378_4.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">There is no pivoting with a twin needle, so the turns are taken s-l-o-w-l-y.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I actually <i>like</i> the tunneling created by the twin needle. It adds dimension. However, I did reduce the bobbin tension slightly so they are not too pronounced. Watching the tunnels appear while I sewed was so much fun, that I sewed extra lines of stitching. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9ZknizrgiMk/VOyzPikL_BI/AAAAAAAACPw/SklwgqZIy2c/s1600/V1378_5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9ZknizrgiMk/VOyzPikL_BI/AAAAAAAACPw/SklwgqZIy2c/s1600/V1378_5.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">View of the side slit and tunnels. Color is off in the inside shots. It's really a burgundy. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Honestly, I don't know how many of these I need, but they are fun to make and wear. <i>And</i> they meet my comfort requirement. I'm always on the lookout for a stable knit for another pair.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Y36kTL3ul18EqxQqDU5rerZnmMUFI5E-9TEu7pdpzmaRf3tLLh1ufGLWiVstAbUjzPYbpY1cGXzU31YoezoABHic5c8RhODF7dcj-Z5ZlrUVT1bcSZeJqw5oc5C0zs3dVbF5K8CIdXUb/s1600/V13783.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Y36kTL3ul18EqxQqDU5rerZnmMUFI5E-9TEu7pdpzmaRf3tLLh1ufGLWiVstAbUjzPYbpY1cGXzU31YoezoABHic5c8RhODF7dcj-Z5ZlrUVT1bcSZeJqw5oc5C0zs3dVbF5K8CIdXUb/s1600/V13783.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">And now an even different color appears! Back of lower leg.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I do love the color -- it plays nicely with many of my jackets, including my <a href="http://madamesewandsew.blogspot.com/2013/03/the-chanel-jacket-post-mortem.html" target="_blank">faux-Chanel</a> and <a href="http://madamesewandsew.blogspot.com/2014/03/simplicity-2153-tweaked.html">my wool S2153</a>. Unfortunately, I don't have many tops that coordinate, but that just means more sewing opportunities. The fabric is a mostly-Rayon ponte from Hancock. It is very comfortable, and - <i>so far</i> - has not pilled as severely as the first ponte did (also mostly-Rayon). </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F4OUgOR_2FU/VOyzL-UwsYI/AAAAAAAACPY/uG5JPpVY4cE/s1600/V1378_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F4OUgOR_2FU/VOyzL-UwsYI/AAAAAAAACPY/uG5JPpVY4cE/s1600/V1378_1.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Here we go -- this is the real color. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">They even work well for walking the dogs in hiking boots!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">It was easy to sew, but very difficult to cut. It just refused to lay flat, even after removing the selvages. I washed it twice, pressed it several times and almost gave up entirely before I decided to just cut it unfolded. A bit high maintenance for a ponte, don't you think?</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipAhjZ7INT1xz8TsPlnjUcEPnbazlgjHUx66pjGr06DmPlm3_gB8gNQADDJvm-cysnMSwkmzu4JaZssLM0UsbA8naxckHeqTsvi3wZ8KR-dqyU6IlqREDbHQEZ5HxkhI6ypthO2hMkuQuT/s1600/IMG_1316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipAhjZ7INT1xz8TsPlnjUcEPnbazlgjHUx66pjGr06DmPlm3_gB8gNQADDJvm-cysnMSwkmzu4JaZssLM0UsbA8naxckHeqTsvi3wZ8KR-dqyU6IlqREDbHQEZ5HxkhI6ypthO2hMkuQuT/s1600/IMG_1316.JPG" height="400" width="155" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nasty winter weather = bad indoor photos</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Last year's pair was a bit too low-rise for me, and the pattern description does mention "one inch below the waist", so I lengthened the rise by one inch all around. That was a bit too high, especially in the front. I almost feel like Urkel.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrGsWm0AoyQfoIyZg1oPucCgFgYzzv7ozlR6EzGBmoD2n4b-7LS4T2Tb1t30tqt1odmYFiTvHCMjUX7s4Vxg_cdtrG4FXdyy_MBJmMTOSL_xihhgEIM2QsD7SuoB3oZu-WoeAjXgiftR0H/s1600/IMG_1327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrGsWm0AoyQfoIyZg1oPucCgFgYzzv7ozlR6EzGBmoD2n4b-7LS4T2Tb1t30tqt1odmYFiTvHCMjUX7s4Vxg_cdtrG4FXdyy_MBJmMTOSL_xihhgEIM2QsD7SuoB3oZu-WoeAjXgiftR0H/s1600/IMG_1327.JPG" height="320" width="251" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Knees are little stretched out.<br />Maybe it's not the perfect fabric.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I did forget to shorten the leg length this time. I'm about average height and rarely wear heels higher than a hiking boot. (My personal style revolves around comfort.) So once again, I chopped the length from the hemline at the end of the project, leaving them long enough to wear with my Dansko clogs, but a tad long for my everyday stomping around shoes. It would look and feel better if I took it out of the lower thigh, instead. It is slightly more complicated to shorten/lengthen, due to the multiple angled seams, but not impossible.</span><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">So maybe I do need to make it again -- at least if I'm going to achieve the perfect fit. (1) Lengthen the back rise by 3/4", leave the front as-is or maybe add 1/4". (2) Shorten leg length by about 1"-1.5". It is pretty quick to sew, after all. There is the difficulty in finding the right fabric, however! </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">*My very stringent criteria for fabric = low poly content, nice color and a "nice" weight.</span><br />
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<br />Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-63365822591232808522015-02-19T19:11:00.001-06:002015-02-19T19:11:38.735-06:00Ignore - just a bloglovin' claim<a href="http://www.bloglovin.com/blog/4344789/?claim=m72q2yk8fcm">Follow my blog with Bloglovin</a>Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-29237203298188851202015-01-28T09:12:00.000-06:002015-01-28T09:13:45.887-06:00Sew Anything<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-woRVb9qj278/VMjp-uJRrvI/AAAAAAAACMc/kwX_i4zdpDQ/s1600/Sew_Anything.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-woRVb9qj278/VMjp-uJRrvI/AAAAAAAACMc/kwX_i4zdpDQ/s1600/Sew_Anything.png" height="273" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hmmm, come to think of it, Lloyd Dobler's jacket <br />reminds me of a Marcy Tilton pattern. Another project?</td></tr>
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I am at long last back to sewing. My bathroom renovation is complete, and as soon as the Christmas decorations were put away, I started sewing with a vengeance. What's on my table? What's <i>not</i> on my table is a better question!<br />
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I was so excited to get my "sewing room" back, that I really didn't know where to start. The yellow and pink flannel is my daughter's Christmas break project. They remain <i>her</i> WIP, as much as I'd love to just finish them myself before they turn into a UFO. It is nice to see her interested in sewing, though. <br />
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The marsala ponte is another pair of <a href="http://madamesewandsew.blogspot.com/2014/01/vogue-1378-or-my-next-generation-pants.html" target="_blank">Vogue 1378</a> pants for me. As soon as I started laying out the tissue, I remembered that I had not finished lining <a href="http://madamesewandsew.blogspot.com/2014/11/finally-pictues-of-vogue-8997.html" target="_blank">the black dress</a>, so that became my priority (top left of picture above, as well as the black thread and silk bias strips). It took quite a while to hand stitch the lining and cover the armscye seams with silk bias binding, but the inside is now almost as pretty as the outside.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/41541/vote-for-the-winner-of-the-2014-fancy-fabrics-challenge" target="_blank">Thre<i>a</i>d's Fancy Fabrics Finalist!</a></td></tr>
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Speaking of my daughter's black dress, it is a finalist in Thre<i>a</i>ds<span style="font-size: xx-small;">(R)</span> Magazine's Fancy Fabric contest. What a thrill! I am in awe to be a nominee, as there were many beautiful entries. I would love your vote. Link to the contest <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/41541/vote-for-the-winner-of-the-2014-fancy-fabrics-challenge" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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At the end of the table, my husband's new cords that he ordered un-hemmed. Normally, I wouldn't be too excited about these, but it was nice just to sew anything.<br />
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Thread and drapery weights for curtains in my daughter's bedroom. We had to order the fabric, as Joann's doesn't keep enough home dec fabric in store inventory. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZIi9xAs44Ls/VMjjjn68JqI/AAAAAAAACLU/JZxOSI-4HWI/s1600/Dye_JAN2015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZIi9xAs44Ls/VMjjjn68JqI/AAAAAAAACLU/JZxOSI-4HWI/s1600/Dye_JAN2015.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Even my kitchen sink overflows with sewing projects: attempting to darken a cotton/poly blend from cherry red to cardinal. It was fairly successful and now waits patiently to be cut.<br />
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What you can't see: a lot of PolarTec<span style="font-size: xx-small;">(R)</span> from MillYardage.com that I ordered one cold winter day. Idle hands really can be the devil's atelier. <br />
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Finally, I am sharing before and after photos of the DIY project that took most of my time in fall 2015. I love the end result, but have decided that, at my age, sewing is a much more suitable hobby than laying tile on my hands and knees. I repeated that mantra many times a day for many weeks.<br />
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Hint: the purple fish theme is "before." It dates back to my daughter's choice when she was 5 (she also had an "I Dream of Jeannie" bedroom theme). The earth tones are so much nicer. We converted the basic builder's tub/shower to a tiled walk-in shower, among many other changes (it was a complete overhaul).<br />
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<br />Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-56378556699868366432015-01-13T17:19:00.001-06:002015-01-13T17:20:06.562-06:00The Couture Skirt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I haven't been doing much sewing, but I have been doing a lot of reading: blogs, books, magazines, you name it. Once again, my sewing room was packed away to make room for Christmas and my mother-in-law's visit. It's excruciatingly painful for me to not have a project.</div>
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A few days before Christmas, the Taunton store was having a sale, with free shipping. I bought myself a gift.</div>
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My daughter seemed offended when I handed the unopened package to her. "Here, wrap this and you can give it to me for Christmas." After all, I don't wear skirts. If I make one, it will be for her. </div>
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I love the book. Since I had nothing to sew, I quickly devoured this. I enjoyed it even more than it's companion, <i>The Couture Cardigan.</i> The pictures are beautiful -- both the instructional photos and the pictures of Claire Shaeffer's Chanel collection. I may have actually enjoyed the photos and descriptions of the real Chanels more than the instructions. </div>
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The instructions seem much easier to understand than <i>Couture Sewing Techniques</i>, largely because of the well, large pictures. I haven't watched the DVD, though I am considering trying to figure out our remote control, just for this.</div>
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Claire's research into Chanel was also captivating. She has dated the bolduc numbers, and compared the originals to copies and knock-offs. It is fascinating. I almost cried when I realized I'd finished reading it all.</div>
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Many (many) years ago, a colleague of mine took me to the Chanel boutique at Garfinkel's in Washington, D.C. With my entry-level job I couldn't afford a real Chanel, but Garfinkels had exact replicas that a working girl could afford. I loved that suit. I can't believe I didn't completely wear it out. When we moved to Arkansas 18 years ago, I donated it, thinking that my days of needing business clothes were behind me. I really wish I would have kept it, if for nothing else than copying it, but I wasn't really doing much sewing then. And why would I need a skirt suit? </div>
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Well, of course I don't <i>need </i> a skirt suit. But I really want one, now!</div>
Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-53369326898891691012014-12-18T14:44:00.002-06:002014-12-18T14:45:06.033-06:00A Cinderella Story, Middle Aged VersionEvery December we attend a charity ball benefiting a local hospital. Yes, every December. I know that it is <i>always</i> on the calendar, yet I am never happy with what I have to wear. Every year, I tell myself that I'm going to sew a gorgeous, flattering dress for <i>next year</i>. But I get busy with other things and next thing you know, December is here and I'm pulling out my old standby: black taffeta skirt with one of three coordinating tops. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XJmrtiA7sCk/VI8PqPuuKzI/AAAAAAAACJs/MEpz6haqywY/s1600/IMG_0325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XJmrtiA7sCk/VI8PqPuuKzI/AAAAAAAACJs/MEpz6haqywY/s1600/IMG_0325.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This top has seen more than a few too many charity balls. I think this one <br />
was 2008, the first of many appearances.</td></tr>
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One year, the lady sitting next to me wore the same thing. We had a good laugh, knowing that it was more than a few years old. After that, I vowed not to wear the black taffeta top again. Last year, I wanted to make myself a nice lace blouse to coordinate with the black taffeta skirt, but something else got in the way and I ended up with a velvet blazer and tank from Dillard's purchased a day or two before the event. It was very warm and comfortable, but not at all elegant, a little too big and not that flattering. We have a hideous family picture with me wearing it. The kids make jokes about it almost weekly.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View C would be perfect!</td></tr>
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This year was going to be different! Even though I am (still) remodeling a bathroom, I was sure I could make time to sew a simple, but elegant blouse to top the taffeta skirt. Burda 7126, which would look lovely with lace or organza, would be perfect. I even bought some fabric, and interfacing and glass buttons -- everything I'd need. Then a last-minute business trip popped up on my schedule in the first week of December. <br />
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So once again, I found myself at Dillard's the day of the event. The special occasion area was bustling. It was truly disappointing to see the racks of identical gowns, that were not my style, and many were poor quality. The taffeta skirt is a basic, so I just focused on finding a new top to dress it up. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://dimg.dillards.com/is/image/DillardsZoom/04323487_zi_black_nude_silver?$searchCatMedium$" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://dimg.dillards.com/is/image/DillardsZoom/04323487_zi_black_nude_silver?$searchCatMedium$" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I saw three women wearing this exact dress at the event.</td></tr>
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There was a lovely white lace blouse, but the only one in my size had lipstick smeared across the front from another shopper. It looked better on the hanger than it did on me and it itched. I even saw a few of the same tops I tried on last year. At full price. Really? Don't they mark down old merchandise? I found myself feeling quite superior to the inventory. Why didn't I plan to make something? It would have been so much better!<br />
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After trying on a few tops and wondering if I could remove the lipstick stain from the white lace, I finally settled for a black lace Calvin Klein jacket that I thought I'd be able to wear over my velvet tank from last year. At the end of my wait at the cash register, the harried sales clerk looked down her nose at me while "informing" me that there was a very important gala this evening that was keeping her busy. I smiled kindly, "Yes, I know. I am shopping for that myself." She acted like she didn't believe me and didn't say another word to me while checking me out. What?! I nearly walked away, but bought it anyway and went home dejected. <br />
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I really wanted a beautiful dress like my daughter's Vogue 8997. In fact, I was downright sad. My husband chairs the hospital foundation board, and he would be in the spotlight all night, giving speeches and handing out awards. I was sorry that he would have such a dumpy date. Where was MY fairy godmother?!<br />
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Before I knew it, I was trying on my daughter's dress. I felt like a little girl in mommy's closet! Guess what? It fit! Yeah, it is three cup sizes too big for me, but it wasn't really noticeable. About that time, Steve walked in and said "I think you should wear it. It looks great." So I did.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3wmagazine.smugmug.com/Mercy-Charity-Ball/i-49H5KtT/0/XL/Steve%20and%20Susie%20Galen%20(1)-XL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3wmagazine.smugmug.com/Mercy-Charity-Ball/i-49H5KtT/0/XL/Steve%20and%20Susie%20Galen%20(1)-XL.jpg" height="400" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With my Prince Charming<br /><a href="http://3wmagazine.smugmug.com/" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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Not only did I get many, many compliments, I was able to have fascinating conversations all evening: about sewing your own clothes. People were amazed that a regular mom like me could sew a lovely dress that fit. They all told me how disappointing the RTW gowns are, and how hard it is to find one that fits.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3wmagazine.smugmug.com/Mercy-Charity-Ball/i-H4DCr5h/0/XL/Susie%20and%20Steve%20Galen2-XL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3wmagazine.smugmug.com/Mercy-Charity-Ball/i-H4DCr5h/0/XL/Susie%20and%20Steve%20Galen2-XL.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3wmagazine.smugmug.com/" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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At one point during dinner, Steve sent a text to our daughter with a picture of the two of us. "Is that my dress? It looks like my dress!" I told her that it was very popular and several magazines and newspapers had photographed us during the evening. It's going to be famous, I joked. "Well, I need it clean by Tuesday!"<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3wmagazine.smugmug.com/Mercy-Charity-Ball/i-DHpkwJc/0/XL/Sisters%20Josetta%20Brown_Veronica%20Dodin%20with%20Steve%20and%20Susie%20Galen2-XL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3wmagazine.smugmug.com/Mercy-Charity-Ball/i-DHpkwJc/0/XL/Sisters%20Josetta%20Brown_Veronica%20Dodin%20with%20Steve%20and%20Susie%20Galen2-XL.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with sisters Josetta and Veronica<br /><a href="http://3wmagazine.smugmug.com/" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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I'm returning the Calvin Klein jacket today. I hope the same sales lady is there, so I can tell her all about the dress that I made.Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-54331375939062224252014-11-12T09:34:00.001-06:002014-12-18T14:45:15.827-06:00Finally: Pictues of Vogue 8997My bathroom remodeling project is taking all my spare time, and I haven't had even a few minutes (or the energy) to upload pictures. Unfortunately, my husband took most of the pictures that evening, and he didn't style the gown very well. I'm sure he was focused on the face. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front View, in the gallery next to the concert hall</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYXHysgvF0cTU07AT7hlLb8hmtDK5ppnmmjO7Zzb5gh67reiL9zsNfct336ulfx5sqoFOLscsORqXFBnvUENisCwbNrouADD17959dVfhEGFfgetJnCC9KEUiRAlQBNagDQcSWDD8TUV5/s1600/IMG_1303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYXHysgvF0cTU07AT7hlLb8hmtDK5ppnmmjO7Zzb5gh67reiL9zsNfct336ulfx5sqoFOLscsORqXFBnvUENisCwbNrouADD17959dVfhEGFfgetJnCC9KEUiRAlQBNagDQcSWDD8TUV5/s400/IMG_1303.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view. The flash really lights up the taffeta.</td></tr>
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I was more than a little disappointed to see young women wearing super short skirts, when the dress code clearly stated "full length skirt". After chiding myself for spending so much time on a gown that she may not have needed, I calmed myself by thinking "She <i>is</i> wearing the nicest dress on that stage." She may have been wearing the nicest dress in town (on a Tuesday evening). <br />
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My attempts to photograph her on stage were not successful. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qThvxqGunjk/VGNzMHWCckI/AAAAAAAACE4/qbduHr3un_A/s1600/IMG_1286.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qThvxqGunjk/VGNzMHWCckI/AAAAAAAACE4/qbduHr3un_A/s320/IMG_1286.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The taffeta lined with cotton broadcloth moves beautifully.<br />
Too bad you can't really see it.</td></tr>
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Some details. <br />
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<b>The sleeves:</b> were underlined with black silk organza. The lace was fairly substantial, and I toyed with only using lace, but felt that the organza would offer a some protection since this is a dress that will be worn many times. I didn't want an elbow to come poking through. Also, the organza added just enough color. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iSAGfVduLws/VGNzIIJfZKI/AAAAAAAACGw/k5IKBv3_Dyg/s1600/IMG_1282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iSAGfVduLws/VGNzIIJfZKI/AAAAAAAACGw/k5IKBv3_Dyg/s400/IMG_1282.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thread-traced sleeves (before adding gussets).</td></tr>
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I finished the seams with silk organza bias cuts that were dyed with coffee. It's a perfect shade to blend with her skin tone, and a tad darker than a tea-stain. Adding vinegar helps set the stain/dye in silk. The bias strips disappear when worn. They're not even really noticeable against the white background below.<br />
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<b>The skirt:</b> Stephanie wanted a taffeta skirt, since she is accustomed to borrowing mine and really likes the scroop. I suppose it's like wearing a bell around your neck: everyone hears you coming, and they turn to watch. Or at least it's fun to imagine they are. We considered silk taffeta, because I really like sewing with silk and Stephanie really likes wearing it. <i>However,</i> we needed 7 yards for this skirt. It's very full, and I did add eight inches to the length. So, we are happy with the nylon/poly taffeta that I found On Sale. The additional 8 inches were just tacked on to the bottom of the pattern. The "lengthen/shorten here" line just was not the right place for eight inches. Although it added a lot more fabric, for a full skirt like this one, it worked out perfectly, multiplying the flare.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHEUsXQItncX7oQbZ2Y_bYMvhaB7rfZBdTu2kMVQXzlesImhW_FW3gCRulnN58KaedknMR3M61aRoMTd1fGuZm21FjVbYbSLAHMCIh_VLD4IkCtXMI6PuhyphenhyphenSTC7zmGSMi1nOeqZZaDwg2/s1600/IMG_1297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHEUsXQItncX7oQbZ2Y_bYMvhaB7rfZBdTu2kMVQXzlesImhW_FW3gCRulnN58KaedknMR3M61aRoMTd1fGuZm21FjVbYbSLAHMCIh_VLD4IkCtXMI6PuhyphenhyphenSTC7zmGSMi1nOeqZZaDwg2/s320/IMG_1297.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sketches are interesting, aren't they?</td></tr>
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<b>Skirt lining: </b>My internet order for the skirt lining was cancelled by the retailer late in the sewing process, so I ended up lining it with a lightweight cotton broadcloth that I had in my stash. I had to piece it in order to get enough, but who is going to know. (Other than you and me?) I just couldn't bring myself to sew the icky lining that the chains sell (no Bemberg available locally). Although the broadcloth adds quite a bit of weight to the dress, it also adds some nice volume and it's got to be comfortable to sit on cotton.<br />
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It was so much fun to see Stephanie playing with the university symphony. I was reminded of the times that I took my little girl to the performances. Shortly before the concert started, a large group of giggling college kids came in, sitting in front of us. My mother frowned and said "Oh, I don't what that noisy bunch sitting here." I smiled and said "Those are Stephanie's friends from the dorm." What could be better than your own cheering section?<br />
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<br />Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-80523118515825857952014-10-08T10:29:00.001-05:002014-10-08T10:30:33.986-05:00Update on the Muslin (it did fit)Many thanks to those of you who offered your help with my fitting woes. It was great to know I had friends who wanted to help!<br />
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The good news is that I have been very busy sewing over the last week. I did take the muslin to my daughter's dorm and it fit. Yippee! The princess seams needed a nip and tuck near the sleeves. My gusset hypothesis was incorrect -- the stranger shaped gusset resulted in a much nicer fit. Note that I did my best to crop out as much of the dorm room background as possible!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWC60G7w3sA7dlZPQet-uEUtydroufHZyEWdq5_i4ODeqfEqV5gvgydG0_OJvLNVneWMJPyy5iKdlnf3G7C1sqYqUVz3HlyB0C7SPmF2doqUv4lJi8uWvyR1FvX7kDUiTSqzYRoGg2rqI2/s1600/muslin4c.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWC60G7w3sA7dlZPQet-uEUtydroufHZyEWdq5_i4ODeqfEqV5gvgydG0_OJvLNVneWMJPyy5iKdlnf3G7C1sqYqUVz3HlyB0C7SPmF2doqUv4lJi8uWvyR1FvX7kDUiTSqzYRoGg2rqI2/s1600/muslin4c.JPG" height="400" width="172" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left side just didn't hang right. Right side was <br />fine with a tuck at the top of the princess seam.</td></tr>
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She scowled when I asked her to "play the violin".<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00rXIHLLJQDwJqYaeb5TFaKGlOjH9fu7YLpRTWP8-FZ6Zb1DxNUDgXYIzOvbukdCSwVdft5WtE1oVDQEaP_BvCkAwv6_aBfc9T9Mbs3ceL5Bd_suptgK0uVXKmQD98yKdQ_IE3Crfu5kk/s1600/muslin4d.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00rXIHLLJQDwJqYaeb5TFaKGlOjH9fu7YLpRTWP8-FZ6Zb1DxNUDgXYIzOvbukdCSwVdft5WtE1oVDQEaP_BvCkAwv6_aBfc9T9Mbs3ceL5Bd_suptgK0uVXKmQD98yKdQ_IE3Crfu5kk/s1600/muslin4d.JPG" height="320" width="282" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Seriously? M-O-O-O-O-M, it fits!"</td></tr>
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So the next seven days were spent madly cutting out the silk organza, the crepe de chine, the lace, hand basting and thread tracing, then piecing it together. I had no idea how hard it is to successfully sew with a heavy corded lace. Most seams had to be lapped and appliqued, which I would have enjoyed if time were on my side. However, I had a lot going on over the last week, and I almost didn't make it. Scheduled medical tests, unscheduled tornado warnings and a political rally all drained my time. Luckily, my husband picked up the slack by doing the grocery shopping and more than his fair share of help around the house, and the dress is now "wearable" for this evening's concert.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRutP2PR9umM9SbMXZ707OR4FZQdiWDEW3ObmZXtWzOwhEbIFz3tsPMN3VUxY6i9BnZXj0gO2kvut0RonQsKZDLbAcmkhLkGzTyyVuY8z7ar7crZFut1el6FD9KNIiPMru88QgEqSbPKXR/s1600/dress_prelim_b.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRutP2PR9umM9SbMXZ707OR4FZQdiWDEW3ObmZXtWzOwhEbIFz3tsPMN3VUxY6i9BnZXj0gO2kvut0RonQsKZDLbAcmkhLkGzTyyVuY8z7ar7crZFut1el6FD9KNIiPMru88QgEqSbPKXR/s1600/dress_prelim_b.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The artificial light makes the taffeta look purple, but it's really black.</td></tr>
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At 9 PM yesterday, I finished sewing the skirt lining to the zipper and declared it ready to go. The crepe de chine bodice lining is not yet sewn in, and I would like to re-align the upper part of the zipper before I do that. I was also a bit leery of trimming all the sleeve seams before we had even a single fitting of the dress. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRX4G7d6VIJKTMJ4dqfwLXPxfMVdJioSvobK1heWoqCStewNWJn6DiwDo7bjeHsPMpHGf39IoT5gBdKusAThVDDppZwbytPcbKwqG8ViyDoOIZPnoenf-TQtRUKOd6Z2xOYnyeQoKt2IyV/s1600/dress_prelim_c.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRX4G7d6VIJKTMJ4dqfwLXPxfMVdJioSvobK1heWoqCStewNWJn6DiwDo7bjeHsPMpHGf39IoT5gBdKusAThVDDppZwbytPcbKwqG8ViyDoOIZPnoenf-TQtRUKOd6Z2xOYnyeQoKt2IyV/s1600/dress_prelim_c.JPG" height="291" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From my grandmother's sewing basket.</td></tr>
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I did make sure there were bra carriers in place at the shoulder seams. They will be easy to move when I put the lining in.<br /><div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0IFSzmKvS1K1uxQjPiRHgYBIH_h3OyMjcYqN2BNuKpQjw3PTWnxo4jD2eErILf2uTbYe9BbzZwtrWMyKKcRNsfKoymueT_Jpul9H7fnMF6q5qFMisM58AVnn7HupTV23_jxrKxyDDfnrQ/s1600/dress_prelim_a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0IFSzmKvS1K1uxQjPiRHgYBIH_h3OyMjcYqN2BNuKpQjw3PTWnxo4jD2eErILf2uTbYe9BbzZwtrWMyKKcRNsfKoymueT_Jpul9H7fnMF6q5qFMisM58AVnn7HupTV23_jxrKxyDDfnrQ/s1600/dress_prelim_a.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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My husband thinks I'm crazy for re-doing the zipper, but after all the work that went into this, I consider it a bit of a masterpiece, and I do want the finished product to be perfect. He thinks I'm quite mad, actually, after seeing me over the last week. I got a lecture on project planning and deadlines. Trust me, I know this pushed the limits of my capacity.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6ersczX6cm4/VDVOvxIlvZI/AAAAAAAACD8/b1EkCJJG1BM/s1600/dress_prelim_d.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6ersczX6cm4/VDVOvxIlvZI/AAAAAAAACD8/b1EkCJJG1BM/s1600/dress_prelim_d.JPG" height="400" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I really love the midriff details!</td></tr>
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I draped four separate pieces of lace over the bodice and lapped at the center front, shoulders and side seams. It took me several hours of trying different layouts before I had the nerve to cut into the lace. It really wasn't that hard to align it all nicely, just time consuming since it had to be tacked down by hand. I could have zig-zagged on the machine, but felt I had better control with hand-stitching. <br />
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The sleeves are underlined with black silk organza -- no crepe de chine -- so they're slightly transparent. The lace was probably heavy enough to use without the organza, but I felt the visual transition from all black on the bodice, to mostly transparent on the sleeve was too stark. The gussets are crepe de chine with lace, no organza, as I didn't want them too stiff.<br />
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More details and final pictures later!<br />
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Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-26071985998645033492014-10-01T11:49:00.000-05:002014-10-08T10:30:52.364-05:00High Anxiety<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've always been an "anxious" person, but sewing is one of those things that usually calms me. Until I start digging myself a hole that starts spiraling to hell.<br />
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Well, the changes to the muslin were not completely successful. In fact, the phrase "epic fail" comes to mind. Stephanie tried to tell me "everything is fine". So I took a picture for her. "THIS is fine? You want to wear THIS?" I admit my voice was raised. A perfect storm of disappointment in my sewing skills, the realization that we were really close to a deadline (and she wouldn't be home next weekend for another fitting), as well as the fact that I'm remodeling a bathroom, pushed me over the edge. As my son watched from the couch, he calmly suggested buying a dress for her. <i>Why didn't I think of that?!</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBvoHW9MFPVT5uRPG_VfNZ3s09xZmgv2HoTk-uFfNLmUddsbH5OwsYoLUpDF1E43oclmOCWpTyIL2GEN5Bd18yWfywaGtbwuJ-66uz7cy2pRIO572AhtUDSC09D07vYTZndFiqBK1hl1hi/s1600/muslin6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBvoHW9MFPVT5uRPG_VfNZ3s09xZmgv2HoTk-uFfNLmUddsbH5OwsYoLUpDF1E43oclmOCWpTyIL2GEN5Bd18yWfywaGtbwuJ-66uz7cy2pRIO572AhtUDSC09D07vYTZndFiqBK1hl1hi/s1600/muslin6.JPG" height="320" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I thought I got rid of all that extra gaping. </td></tr>
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Once we calmed down a bit, I took an assessment of what changes were needed:<br />
- more room in the shoulder cap<br />
- increase width at shoulder seam<br />
- add height to side back armscye<br />
- add a sleeve gusset or add a lot of height to the sleeve and armscye<br />
- there appears to be too much fabric above the bust, but that is partially caused by the sleeve pulling the bodice off her body, pinched out some anyway.<br />
- the neckline still gaped a tiny bit, but I think I can ease that out with ease-stitching the seam allowance and some stay tape.<br />
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My husband offered to take our son to a movie, and I sat down and tried to figure out where I went wrong and how to correct it. Having a cup of coffee, was probably a mistake. I panicked. I pulled out the inspiration dress and started doing a knockoff of the bodice (it's two pieces with a few darts, how bad could it be?). 10 minutes into that exercise, I realized I was crazy and abandoned it. I briefly considered recutting the bodice with the original pattern, which had no problems other than a slightly tight armscye. But we didn't really like the neckline. Do I have another TNT bodice that I could substitute? I was pretty wound up. So I shelved it for 24 hours.<br />
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After finishing the work I get paid for on Monday, I pulled it out again and gave it a fresh look. The gusset was really my first choice for increasing her range of motion. I probably could redraft the sleeve with little wings to build in the gusset, but it's a bit late in the game to experiment. A gusset worked during the fitting, keep it. Latest changes include:<br />
- Redrafted sleeve with more room in the cap<br />
- Redrafted the front/back bodice pieces with a tad more room in the shoulder<br />
- Extended the armscye of the side back piece about 3/8"<br />
- Created a gusset<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgos37f83lEQsLtuUYYTEOnTrOOuVm_8L6C7OQQu500PhVi1fnRy5lQHgJwbuTIcU1qDiZ4DIsCwptFg12d6ZUjhXl8NstEXm9A4auv4Pn6XB42l_lUam5ZdGGRONZ1yF9rk_WKRGunIdYu/s1600/IMG_1279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgos37f83lEQsLtuUYYTEOnTrOOuVm_8L6C7OQQu500PhVi1fnRy5lQHgJwbuTIcU1qDiZ4DIsCwptFg12d6ZUjhXl8NstEXm9A4auv4Pn6XB42l_lUam5ZdGGRONZ1yF9rk_WKRGunIdYu/s1600/IMG_1279.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How can we be missing that much room in the armpit?</td></tr>
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Since I doubted my skills so much more than usual, I spent way too much time researching gussets. Should it be square/angled or "football" shaped? In the end, I just went with the shape that I pinned in to cover the gap in the muslin. As you can see, it is roughly a russet potato. A russet gusset.<br />
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I did a terrible job marking my gusset, so I had another little meltdown trying to sew it to the new sleeve and bodice. ("Is this the top or the bottom? Does this attach at the notch or a random location? Wahhhhhhh!) Pin, unpin, pin again, unpin again. Hand baste. It's a very fiddly spot to try to sew with a machine.<br />
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Also, there's an odd little curve to the gusset piece on one side. I left the weird curve in on the right sleeve, and smoothed it out on the left just to test if I needed it, or if it was a mistake. My hypothesis is that the weird curve adds problems. I know I said no more experimentation, but I can't help myself.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AtC97KepGSc/VCwa99uwDKI/AAAAAAAACAI/r-ZrirISGN8/s1600/muslin3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AtC97KepGSc/VCwa99uwDKI/AAAAAAAACAI/r-ZrirISGN8/s1600/muslin3.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gusset with smoothed curve from below. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkxw8DongWcTmngvmXP3A-3pTsg4iW3vUOEursorcTaw5szKIBk-4iQawPWyWJJCWZqtg2Tg3F5jxeDMKHuztHwRp6cQJqBw-l9RaOAFNEp9wXMEaJJ4YnQgasYc3SGp_3YuIKg-yWa7eA/s1600/muslin4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkxw8DongWcTmngvmXP3A-3pTsg4iW3vUOEursorcTaw5szKIBk-4iQawPWyWJJCWZqtg2Tg3F5jxeDMKHuztHwRp6cQJqBw-l9RaOAFNEp9wXMEaJJ4YnQgasYc3SGp_3YuIKg-yWa7eA/s1600/muslin4.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">from side</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicYWRJjgKSjBoFl5BVv-MY0HaHPdoKYgLC-p5a8A6wKmd0UxIjmJt3rXeT01XjsIG8TXstGtyn3i1Zv2F_8ABCmF1aPDL6XS8R0-67eOgq0kYRQse1Dg8G6fsdVNTU9lZ2h4TdLP41554/s1600/muslin5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicYWRJjgKSjBoFl5BVv-MY0HaHPdoKYgLC-p5a8A6wKmd0UxIjmJt3rXeT01XjsIG8TXstGtyn3i1Zv2F_8ABCmF1aPDL6XS8R0-67eOgq0kYRQse1Dg8G6fsdVNTU9lZ2h4TdLP41554/s1600/muslin5.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Muslin #4? Who's counting, anyway. The left sleeve <br />
seems to hang nicer than the right. Probably that odd curve!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I felt a lot better <i>doing something</i>, rather than <i>worrying about what I needed to do. </i>It gives me a little bit of control to think I'm making progress. I know it's just the <i>illusion</i> of control, but sometimes a placebo is all I need. <br />
<br />
Now I need a fitting on the real body. I'm working that out. This weekend she has a "leadership retreat" and won't be able to come home. The concert is one week from <i>today</i>. Okay. More panic. Can I come down there? No answer. I'm sure her dorm room is a mess and she doesn't want me near it. I offered to meet her at Walmart and try it on in the ladies room. The handicapped stalls have plenty of room, and the light is pretty good. Fitting a muslin is probably one of the least weird things that has happened in a Walmart bathroom.<br />
<br />
<br />Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-61710972014298402912014-09-30T07:29:00.000-05:002014-10-08T10:31:04.096-05:00The Symphony Dress Begins<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I have an admission: I'm a little lonely now that my daughter has moved into the dorms. My husband and son are good company, but my daughter shares many of my interests, and added so much vitality to our home. I also missed sewing for her. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Not for long: she needs a gown for the university orchestra. We really liked a RTW dress that she wore for high school orchestra, but a full length, all black gown is now required.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMniTTnwD-M0Qb6lIx-NbtDk2-ALl44j9J76jGUTcpu6y2YqNOGMDSsonio59kGR6R1H_cReTsa197hdr3VNIxBnlVgA9Sqhre6qEMTI08S8GDDpCM_abl16jrIY8P1iVpqB0znQOKyLQ/s1600/Stephanie2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMniTTnwD-M0Qb6lIx-NbtDk2-ALl44j9J76jGUTcpu6y2YqNOGMDSsonio59kGR6R1H_cReTsa197hdr3VNIxBnlVgA9Sqhre6qEMTI08S8GDDpCM_abl16jrIY8P1iVpqB0znQOKyLQ/s1600/Stephanie2.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The inspiration dress</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Vogue 8997 caught my eye last spring. It's very feminine, with a great V-neck. Love the full skirt, with the trim waistline!</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XYWo03Pexqs/VCWTaXwxuII/AAAAAAAAB-4/4o5m1N_uEak/s1600/vogue8997_main.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XYWo03Pexqs/VCWTaXwxuII/AAAAAAAAB-4/4o5m1N_uEak/s1600/vogue8997_main.jpg" height="320" width="303" /></span></a></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">And View C? Well, wouldn't it make a perfect long dress? Taffeta skirt with a lace bodice and we have a gorgeous dress. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLhh46umCXj7NFrKy0VX-T9wNk8lOG7eAWosKfdKyf4YUjVg14ddgqg0Af51Hlc5kmUbEDDFzFzzgq71MdXPNZuwgq_TVhGo0McSFBxH-u15Bay93e8vReil7TeRJJ1T4GOsPDUzLnkxKq/s1600/vogue8997_drawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLhh46umCXj7NFrKy0VX-T9wNk8lOG7eAWosKfdKyf4YUjVg14ddgqg0Af51Hlc5kmUbEDDFzFzzgq71MdXPNZuwgq_TVhGo0McSFBxH-u15Bay93e8vReil7TeRJJ1T4GOsPDUzLnkxKq/s1600/vogue8997_drawing.jpg" height="200" width="188" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Vogue 8997, View C</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Of course, we need to add 3/4 sleeves, which is also conveniently included, in View F. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrx8C3aCZIY-NoWclHkVTrdrUOJ5uF-HNmnJL5ww2hx7BAbi2tpBEf87Vdmt3ybJWslVVrYD9p2IGzsCNlw4yrx4XtFV0IFyi15jcZNzojjOrVlNGxIakOb4sPwUSx4qT2arhm0X1Aldvr/s1600/vogue8997_line.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrx8C3aCZIY-NoWclHkVTrdrUOJ5uF-HNmnJL5ww2hx7BAbi2tpBEf87Vdmt3ybJWslVVrYD9p2IGzsCNlw4yrx4XtFV0IFyi15jcZNzojjOrVlNGxIakOb4sPwUSx4qT2arhm0X1Aldvr/s1600/vogue8997_line.gif" height="200" width="160" /></span></a></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Once you put those elements together: 3/4 sleeves, full skirt, black fabric...I imagine a nun's habit. In lace, but still a bit austere. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I was greeted with a nice surprise when starting the muslin: Vogue 8997 is a "custom fit", meaning no FBA is necessary. It looked like she'd still need a size 12 for the bust, 10 for the waist, but I accidentally marked a size 10 everywhere. Realizing my mistake after several pieces were marked and cut, I just went with the 10, expecting to let out some of the seams. I was also a bit concerned about the sleeve fitting, so I only attached one. Lo and behold: it fit almost perfectly! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJAayymPoFgt_FvDhtz9uZQOwkT9Ow4NlPgZJ1BigaDbmFhyO7OiMLz3gP6GdXjHC-OPgatcS_NyW9LDSHtYuo2cUciySj5NBO7q_P3uzcOQFosYLNroDsN0c2xXVa3gVwq0ip2h4DZA8/s1600/muslin2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJAayymPoFgt_FvDhtz9uZQOwkT9Ow4NlPgZJ1BigaDbmFhyO7OiMLz3gP6GdXjHC-OPgatcS_NyW9LDSHtYuo2cUciySj5NBO7q_P3uzcOQFosYLNroDsN0c2xXVa3gVwq0ip2h4DZA8/s1600/muslin2.JPG" height="320" width="159" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Muslin #1 (size 10/D). Head removed due to bad hair day.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">It's been a long time since I had a muslin ready to go after one fitting. Honestly, I didn't know what to do. Well, I needed to add 8 inches to the length, but the hard stuff to fit all fit really well.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">We were both so thrilled that we didn't need any more fittings! She was getting ready to take it off, when she mentioned that the neckline was a little too high for her. Yeah, okay. I'll lower it an inch. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Easy change, right? Well, of course not. Now the neckline gaped. Pinch out the excess, rotate the darts. So the next weekend, when Stephanie came home to teach violin lessons, we had another quick fitting, and the sleeve ripped out at the armscye. She does need to move both arms in this dress, after all. And the neckline still looked too high.</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Take 3: redrafted the front and front side bodice with an even lower neckline and higher armscye. I had a feeling that a gusset would probably work better, but wasn't sure how big to make it, since I didn't have my fit model on hand. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The lower neckline does improve the overall look quite a bit. While waiting for her to come home for the <i>next</i> Sunday lessons, I admired the design lines of this dress. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7mNcGQVWoxFsrAmOgvAIFUCAkFM9feL_iGoeCh4E-vQtNbSIY3gy56xpdvDuTxFA6DBUVOCqd0J7G_FJTCAd3j3HdWPzaie4YUuJW2193YbiP4f6qW4LtbMHAxRv9LYEGlHvEdCzv28X/s1600/neckline3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7mNcGQVWoxFsrAmOgvAIFUCAkFM9feL_iGoeCh4E-vQtNbSIY3gy56xpdvDuTxFA6DBUVOCqd0J7G_FJTCAd3j3HdWPzaie4YUuJW2193YbiP4f6qW4LtbMHAxRv9LYEGlHvEdCzv28X/s1600/neckline3.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Muslin #3. I hope it fits the girl as well as the dress form.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</div>
Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-81014035159925611092014-08-25T14:08:00.002-05:002014-08-25T14:08:43.090-05:00Alison Swimsuit Parts 2 and 3: The Two Piece and The Pageant Suit<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADPPYXAAX_3PZqo6-p3YHkBgv9Dx7JM0eUwMtyCFaIDOrg7gCFnu-5xSZNfye-JkjeyTRDACKYKK00yCuqJyJgbCUkI4DFVThOyl8MIcmZRdq69cGK82qPa9VbSNiFLIVLa14gGTPQezx/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADPPYXAAX_3PZqo6-p3YHkBgv9Dx7JM0eUwMtyCFaIDOrg7gCFnu-5xSZNfye-JkjeyTRDACKYKK00yCuqJyJgbCUkI4DFVThOyl8MIcmZRdq69cGK82qPa9VbSNiFLIVLa14gGTPQezx/s1600/photo.JPG" height="320" width="167" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vintage Simplicity 1302</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I had so much fun with the Alison swimsuit for my daughter, that I just had to make another one. I did promise her a two-piece, after all! Swimsuit sewing is one area that you really can save money by making your own. For the same price that I would have paid for a single swimsuit at a 40% discount, I got enough fabric and supplies to make two. And they both <u>fit my daughter</u>, a feat that the department store is unable to accomplish!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij7oTl82rlFiIvqV6xILFK86B4zR0oRakDFha0rFnNaWgXcwUbT6a7j2DyaYBYjQ3y4rLmhc9SzJfYRJi-o6lR_iM5TeqWQ9nUeIpe70mPTG5bHZ7X6iDYoFArTMcrcU1-JKa3u6avpS-p/s1600/IMG_1232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij7oTl82rlFiIvqV6xILFK86B4zR0oRakDFha0rFnNaWgXcwUbT6a7j2DyaYBYjQ3y4rLmhc9SzJfYRJi-o6lR_iM5TeqWQ9nUeIpe70mPTG5bHZ7X6iDYoFArTMcrcU1-JKa3u6avpS-p/s1600/IMG_1232.JPG" height="338" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The size adjuster is in a terribly distracting position...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Using the same navy polka dot and red spandex also used in the <a href="http://madamesewandsew.blogspot.com/2014/08/the-alison-burda-style-swimsuit.html" target="_blank">one-piece</a>, I drafted a two piece version of the <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/alison" target="_blank">BurdaStyle Alison</a>. </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">She wanted a retro design, so I used a photo of a vintage Simplicity swimsuit (1302, above) as our model for the top. It is very similar to the design of the Alison, and required few changes from that pattern:</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Increased the width and height of the bust insert</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Instead of using the flat neckline of the Alison pattern, I sculpted the front for more of a sweetheart and added elastic. I'm not sure that elastic is necessary -- my thoughts were that it was a deeper neckline, and it would add a little "security".</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Increased the length of the shoulder strap, so it could be tied at the neck </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Added a band under the cups to secure the bottom of the top</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Used firmer bust cups in this version, although I still had a hard time finding the best size locally. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This version's top is lined in swimsuit lining -- the one-piece was self-lined, which seemed heavy to me</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The bottom was super easy, as I just used the bottom 8 inches or so of the Alison and added elastic at the waist. It is in the navy/white polka dot fabric. I also lined the bottoms with swimsuit lining (the one-piece was lined only in the crotch and bust), which apparently made it more comfortable, as well as less transparent when wet. Although I did not notice any "problems" with the original unlined torso of the first suit, which she wore on vacation at a water park. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span>
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the briefs, because my daughter left for college, taking the suit with her! I'm told "it is perfect." It was worn on a float trip and for bluff jumping. I'm glad I didn't know about the latter until after-the-fact. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Suit #3 was a "pageant" swimsuit. I don't have any pictures to share with her in it, as she doesn't want those on the internet, and she's probably right. Let's just say that it <i>really</i> accentuates her positives. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJlPu1pvEfJjaeCnda81BY5PPCMLD8cA8IPfp5IkWYZe20QZU6yU5qHLKM3fEPpNBRduBTGuafoQLk_XX5C3xb_l-1yfft6xN6sjDGHEYRk7X4bQNh-VIQg_GWOUT3s7YAN0mN_J0mdba/s1600/IMG_1226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJlPu1pvEfJjaeCnda81BY5PPCMLD8cA8IPfp5IkWYZe20QZU6yU5qHLKM3fEPpNBRduBTGuafoQLk_XX5C3xb_l-1yfft6xN6sjDGHEYRk7X4bQNh-VIQg_GWOUT3s7YAN0mN_J0mdba/s1600/IMG_1226.JPG" height="400" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I had a hard time dressing the mannequin.<br />The bottom would just not go on easily!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">We ordered some vibrant raspberry spandex from Spandex House several weeks in advance, but two days before the pageant it still hadn't arrived, so we bought more of the red from Hancock and I whipped up a slightly different one-piece version of <i>Alison</i>.</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Neckline is similar to the two-piece top, with slightly more plunge</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Leg openings are cut higher on the outside of the thigh</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Lengthened the torso by about 2 inches, which better aligned the bust of the suit with her bust. She does not have a long torso, so I didn't even consider doing this with the first version. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Bought some power net that we considered using, but instead just used regular swimsuit lining turned so the direction of greatest stretch ran lengthwise instead of crosswise, which gave surprisingly more support than I anticipated.</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It looked great on her, and I saved $200 from the price of the least expensive pageant suit that I could find. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LPP4JvUq3_ueG4V4NpBHLmUT2QbTDRBoqzlxUPDZwDbc8uCtFUsC-vo-5wpXikfeaKJ1jXMIFTPzHy0nh2zwQUy22swrYevBEIpqlfxw8eZFbZeODAEsPn1aZGgnXXD9G4WzK50ppGJ5/s1600/IMG_1227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LPP4JvUq3_ueG4V4NpBHLmUT2QbTDRBoqzlxUPDZwDbc8uCtFUsC-vo-5wpXikfeaKJ1jXMIFTPzHy0nh2zwQUy22swrYevBEIpqlfxw8eZFbZeODAEsPn1aZGgnXXD9G4WzK50ppGJ5/s1600/IMG_1227.JPG" height="400" width="313" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back: It really is straight, and yes, I stole <a href="http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2014/07/how-to-make-bow-back-nettie.html" target="_blank">Tilly's Bow Back Nettie idea!</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">For these two suits, I used only my Bernina 930. My serger doesn't do a cover stitch, so rather than switch back and forth, I kept it all on one machine. I used one of the stretch stitches on the two-piece, but only the regular zig-zag on the third suit, which I think I liked best of all.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Stephanie begrudgingly participated in the county pageant, as a condition of getting some money for college from my dad. His intention was for her to build confidence -- which it eventually did. She won Crowd Favorite and Spirit of the Community awards (and second runner-up). A huge shock to her, after hoping that "they don't announce last place." She also met a lot of super sweet girls who gave her some great advice, since it was her first pageant (and most likely her last). </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Accepting her "Spirit of the Community" award<br />
for exceptional community service. <a href="http://nwamedia.photoshelter.com/gallery-image/Benton-County-Fair/G00000QGfujVrcDc/I0000qH9A3K7YmWg/C0000pXHGYESd4PQ" target="_blank">Source</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">She really dragged her feet to prep, and the day before the event, she found out the loaner gown she had lined up was not available. Instead, she wore this year's hand made prom dress for her evening gown. I was a little concerned that it didn't have any bling, but she fit in just fine with the older age group (surprisingly, the younger ones had the flashier dresses).</span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The event symbolized the end of an era for us, since she left for college the next morning. It was a great send-off, especially when she saw a blue ribbon on her gluten free cookies! She was afraid she'd get last place on those, too.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the Best of Show case. </td></tr>
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Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-76296110276082847072014-08-19T15:01:00.002-05:002022-02-13T09:49:49.690-06:00The Alison (Burda Style) Swimsuit<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">Image: BurdaStyle.com</span></i></td></tr>
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<span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">Keeping with the <i>Need to Sew</i> theme, my daughter NEEDED a swimsuit. We shopped RTW first, even dragging little brother along to add to everyone's torture. After trying dozens of suits, we found nothing that gave her decent coverage in the chest. </span><br />
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<span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">Swimsuit shopping can be so brutal! During a good cry in the Dillard's dressing room, I assured her that I could make her something to FIT. So we headed across the parking lot to Hancock Fabrics. Within a few minutes, girlfriend was smiling again, having found a super cute navy/white polka dot spandex that she paired with a cheery red.</span><br />
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<span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">"Sure, I can sew a suit that fits you!" Although I never have sewn one before, I remembered an email Burda Style sent me advertising their Alison swimsuit (formerly free) for $3.99 with a free webinar. I've never taken a Burda Style webinar, but I do love Craftsy, so it sounded like a great way to make a first swimsuit. Never mind that Stephanie wanted a two piece, I really wanted to make this one!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Additional length in the torso would have better aligned the bust.</td></tr>
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<span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">First, my quick review of the pattern:</span><br />
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<li><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">The instructions that come with the pattern are minimal and steps are a bit out of order (IMO). I have read that the initial free pattern had no instructions, so this is an improvement.</span></li>
<li><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">There are no notches. Most of the pieces are fairly easy to figure out, but not all. For anyone who has made a swimsuit before, it's likely not a problem. I created a few match points for myself, which did help keep things straight. If you're pattern matching, take care to walk the pattern pieces and mark notches. </span></li>
<li><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">Many of the pattern pieces should be cut on the fold, but it is not stated as such. I caught one mistake (crotch piece), but missed the back strap, which would have been way too short to tie a bow (pic below) anyway. My version has a hook that connects two shorter straps, instead.</span></li>
<li><span face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif">One pattern piece is not labeled, but it was easy to figure out it was the front tab.</span></li>
<li><span face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif">No marks or suggestions for gathering the bust insert. I followed the directions of the webinar, but looking at the final product, I should have gathered more fabric.</span></li>
<li><span face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif">I missed the instruction to add 3/8" SA to the legs for elastic. Since 5/8" SA were already included, I'm not sure why this wasn't already done. My daughter is fine with the higher leg, but if you want a more retro leg, add 3/8".</span></li>
<li><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">Although it is a print-at-home PDF, there are less than 10 pieces of paper to paste together and tracing was quick, because the pattern pieces are not complex.</span></li>
<li><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">It's a flattering final product. I'd definitely make it again, even if I cursed it several times during the first version.</span></li>
<li><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">There is very little elastic used, only around the legs. All other edges use fabric banding. In my opinion, this is a more comfortable option. I think I may have over-elasticated the back a tiny bit.</span></li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">Image: BurdaStyle.com</span></i><br />
<span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">My back strap was only about 5" long and definitely too short for a bow.</span><br />
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<span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">As for the "webinar", it was more of a narrated film strip, nothing like a Craftsy class. I can't complain too much, since I paid only $3.99 for pattern <i>and </i>class, and it did give pretty good instructions to help me figure out how to put the suit together correctly. </span><br />
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<span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">Given that we regard this first version of our swimsuit a wearable muslin, it came out pretty darn cute. I need to add length to the torso, and it could still use more fabric at the bust. My "FBA" was nothing more than forcing the size L bust insert into the size M front/back. We really needed an XL or an XXL (not included, so I will need to draft it). That's why <i>toiles </i>were invented, <i>non</i>?</span><br />
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<span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">This is a very flattering swimsuit style, and the process made me realize that swimsuit construction is not that scary. I used my serger for part of the construction, and my Bernina 930 to baste some seams and apply the leg elastic. </span><br />
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<span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">We may never shop for swimsuits again! On to the two piece...</span><div><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif">Updated 2/13/2022: Links to instructions and pattern. </span></div><div><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pTotD4jXot9zBPNiJ_FWr5M3LoSuA3Rl/view?usp=sharing">Allison Instructions</a></span></div><div><span face="Trebuchet MS, sans-serif"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DtcDUAMpCVFysKWidgaVEnCK_QZAbV19/view?usp=sharing">Allison Pattern</a></span></div>Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-63111716408387438462014-07-22T09:38:00.002-05:002015-09-10T09:57:24.909-05:00A "Need to Sew" Basis: McCall's 6124In preparation for my daughter's Prom dinner in late April, which was soon followed by a graduation party in mid-May, my sewing room was stripped of sewing materials, boxed up and stored in my husband's home office. Okay, so the sewing room is also our dining room.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3fyPyLY69NY/UadnVVPcbtI/AAAAAAAAAq0/sBouzXPDmXM/s1600/30MAY2013+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3fyPyLY69NY/UadnVVPcbtI/AAAAAAAAAq0/sBouzXPDmXM/s1600/30MAY2013+006.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I completely understand why someone would want to get rid of this mess.</td></tr>
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Husband then told me his great idea for creating a sewing room all my own, made possible by a series of moves: (1) building a new home office on the first floor, (2) moving my daughter's room to the old office, (3) moving my son to my daughter's old room and (4) creating a wonderful sewing spot for me in my son's old room. "So, you may as well leave everything boxed up until we're ready to move." Which would be late August, <i>at the earliest. </i>As slow as we move, it would probably be next August.<br />
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Although slightly intrigued by the idea of designing a perfect sewing room from scratch, I really just wanted to SEW NOW, but with my supplies and tools stored upstairs, I'm restricted to what really NEEDS to be sewn. <br />
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Luckily, my daughter's summer job <i>required </i>a button-down shirt. Her manager suggested she buy it in the young men's department at Penney's. What!? We even had trouble finding a well fitting button-down shirt in the ladies' section: either too baggy in the shoulders or too tight in the chest.<br />
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Mom to the rescue! I picked through the boxes stored on the second floor to find my scissors, seam ripper, measuring tape and pins. Just the essentials. We found McCalls 6124, which is not a button-down shirt, but that's an easy fix. It doesn't have a yoke, or a shaped bottom hem, but it does have princess seams.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/M6124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/M6124.jpg" height="320" width="303" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McCall's 6124</td></tr>
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I have never been comfortable wearing a fitted dress shirt. They always feel tight across my back and chest, and usually baggy around my waist. I ordered some stretch shirting to alleviate the tight factor. We were given a few approved colors, all of which were pastels, none of which are the most flattering on Stephanie, who looks better in bolder colors. Rules are rules, though. <br />
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Since this was to be my first button-up/button-down, I ordered some relatively cheap fabric from Denver Fabrics, which was rather disappointing. First of all, it has a very stiff drape, a "spongy" feel, and wrinkles easily. Most importantly, and most annoying of all, there were many different shades of baby blue to be found on the one contiguous piece of fabric I received. Even though I cut it using the "with nap" layout, the two back pieces are clearly different colors. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Q2fT_cAwkadR-G_UIqOp5Tw_EQ8dvxQgrEZorqS1fb5FB08zTrljrsrVXmj6-O_5ggw_JjFybtGa_-dFaL2scTS-3l478IzcVZHZ-Fx6cfJuMH0Vw-wwq1Gg2eTFkecHHWZ9YnDQ6ATK/s1600/IMG_1202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Q2fT_cAwkadR-G_UIqOp5Tw_EQ8dvxQgrEZorqS1fb5FB08zTrljrsrVXmj6-O_5ggw_JjFybtGa_-dFaL2scTS-3l478IzcVZHZ-Fx6cfJuMH0Vw-wwq1Gg2eTFkecHHWZ9YnDQ6ATK/s1600/IMG_1202.JPG" height="400" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left center back is a few shades darker than right center back.</td></tr>
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I wasn't completely pleased with the outcome of the shirt, but I'm not sure if it's due to the pattern, my FBA or the poor quality shirting fabric. I am willing to give the pattern another go, next time with some nicer quality shirting from Mood. [That fabric is took too long to ship, and her summer job is winding down, so I won't be making another one for her]. I wouldn't mind trying one of the longer styles for myself -- they have a nice flare, and I imagine they would look cute with leggings. If I wore leggings. Never mind.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Add_5_Full/M6124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Add_5_Full/M6124.jpg" height="320" width="303" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Isn't it cute? I may learn to like leggings, after all.</td></tr>
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What would I change next time? Princess seams: there is built-in ease on the front piece, that I was not able to steam out. It's not enough ease that it looks shirred, only enough to make it look like you don't know how to sew. Next time, I'd either increase it or remove some. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buckled princess seam</td></tr>
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The barrel sleeve feature is not per the pattern -- I accidentally cut one sleeve too short (don't ask) -- so this is my fix. I actually like it though.<br /><br />I thought there was too much ease in the sleeve cap, at least for this fabric. If I make it again, I will reduce the ease, or make sure I can steam it out. It just didn't look right to me.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Other changes I made, were to shape the bottom hem, flat-felled the seams and edgestitched/topstitched the collar, band and plackets.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Used a RTW shirt as a guide for the shape of the hem.<br />The pattern is a straight bottom hem.</td></tr>
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Even with the problems, it looks really cute on Stephanie, and fits her better than the RTW shirts that we found. Her co-workers like it as well. The ladies wanted to know where she found such a nice fitting shirt!<br />
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This project intrigued my husband, in terms of the stretch shirting. "Can you make a dress shirt for me?" He also ordered some from Mood. Perhaps I will soon have an important enough project to get the rest of my supplies moved back to the dining room!<br />
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Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-66524801311544280362014-07-09T22:40:00.001-05:002014-07-09T22:42:37.904-05:00Simple GiftsI have mentioned that I sew on my grandmother's Bernina 930, but haven't mentioned her skills as a seamstress. The 930 was the last sewing machine she owned, and an object of pride for her. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggYsvMtC4xcRVsvf_UuFdTBCzgQCbpLrKd0ihDlDzwga4nHUhwT1oHBqyfyZwsNuFL2tHq8Hbe2iuefzpScaP8EIR0q4aYHt2ZdIPRTOxSFpja1zQgtKq3eHv4aIHsbBGLT19YsAMsdAry/s1600/02JAN2013+046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggYsvMtC4xcRVsvf_UuFdTBCzgQCbpLrKd0ihDlDzwga4nHUhwT1oHBqyfyZwsNuFL2tHq8Hbe2iuefzpScaP8EIR0q4aYHt2ZdIPRTOxSFpja1zQgtKq3eHv4aIHsbBGLT19YsAMsdAry/s1600/02JAN2013+046.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Her pride became such a joy to me!</td></tr>
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I don't remember exactly when I carted her 930 from western Kansas back to Arkansas, but it was several years ago. My aunt spent several months talking her out of the machine that had sat unused for years. It was painful for her to give up, even to me, her only granddaughter. At that point, several strokes had left her without much control of one side of her body and her eyesight was too poor to even read. I wondered if her reluctance was really her hope for another chance to sew again.<br />
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After a few years, she would just laugh when my mother told her about "the beautiful things" I made with her machine, because she no longer remembered owning a sewing machine. It was so sad for me to think that she had truly forgotten more than I ever knew about the art of sewing. <br />
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Nanny made great fitting, stylish outfits for me. There was one outfit in particular that stands out: a solid orange knit skirt and a coordinating striped tank top. I loved it. I'm sure my eight-year-old tomboy self wore it out. It rivaled the best RTW of the time, which we all know was much higher quality in the early 70's. I normally hated skirts and dresses, but I loved that one.<br />
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My mom still brags about the formal gowns her mother made her, with nothing more than a description of what she envisioned; no pattern necessary, maybe not even a picture. Nanny would grab some newsprint, draft her own pattern and it would turn out beautifully. I imagined a true fairy godmother at work.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYHet1c4Xwcn1bqQyKl38iMDsNe37E6ICMeYYedXPBTwf5x9kYKWzQt8y3hMgEMNHP2-tsEPcauNIs_2FUB1UuvL4vvnUGli9rGXw1-EGtcWd6QvH-1MYI-JArUBOhQvjKmozyp8dsOGrc/s1600/hastings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYHet1c4Xwcn1bqQyKl38iMDsNe37E6ICMeYYedXPBTwf5x9kYKWzQt8y3hMgEMNHP2-tsEPcauNIs_2FUB1UuvL4vvnUGli9rGXw1-EGtcWd6QvH-1MYI-JArUBOhQvjKmozyp8dsOGrc/s1600/hastings.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My grandmother's family, sans her eldest brother (she is center back). <br />
Most of them were adults with their own families by the time this one was taken. <br />
She survived all her siblings, by many years.</td></tr>
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Nanny grew up during the depression, the oldest girl in a family of eight children. She and her three sisters learned to sew early. As an adult, she would window shop after-hours with her sketch book to knock-off the latest fashions. <br />
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However, her extreme attention to crafting perfection is the reason my mother never taught me to sew. My mom's painful memories of ripping out imperfect seams, and sobbing at the sewing machine under the tutelage of her mother prevented her from exposing me to something similar. I had to wait for my seventh grade Home Ec teacher to show me how to thread a machine.<br />
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My memories of my grandmother run much broader and deeper than sewing. She was a wonderful lady, with a great sense of humor, who worked hard her whole life, much of it as her family's breadwinner. She was a kind Sunday school teacher, always incorporating some sort of craft into the first-graders' lessons. A wonderful storyteller, she fascinated me with her tales of playing hooky from kindergarten, walking to the river to talk to the fishermen <i>by herself </i>and hopping freight trains to travel from one side of the city to the other (also alone). She worked as a riveter on B29s in WWII. An exceptional athlete, she played on a national soccer team and held the high jump record at her high school for decades. She helped me see how important forgiveness was, most of all to the one doing the forgiving.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjik19TbzSs3WY0FpDlBiUlTmEcpPe6u9KVdxUDa9hETtucetzflQn0WWghMPcy8w2tsbYycNG5U-VbZNLpwFAkLLJpL1hf-ELyb-O6b3SEeUk4p9ezZpKv7MX_IaIz27ChxJfm1aDG9RqW/s1600/wedding.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjik19TbzSs3WY0FpDlBiUlTmEcpPe6u9KVdxUDa9hETtucetzflQn0WWghMPcy8w2tsbYycNG5U-VbZNLpwFAkLLJpL1hf-ELyb-O6b3SEeUk4p9ezZpKv7MX_IaIz27ChxJfm1aDG9RqW/s1600/wedding.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me, my mom and Nanny. A long time ago. Nanny is radiant, <br />
because she doesn't have to worry about me being an old maid anymore.</td></tr>
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Nanny's battle with dementia and a failing body ended last week, at 93. I had already missed her for a very long time. I will be forever grateful for her many gifts, always reminded of them all when I sew.Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4484579973817088482.post-3293212156982807302014-04-28T13:55:00.004-05:002014-04-28T13:56:34.213-05:00The Last Prom Dress<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Did I say that I was sad this was the last prom dress? Let's just say I have developed a great deal of admiration for professional seamstresses who must deal with fussy clients in order to make a living. And I'm glad to say I am finished.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">In my opinion, the dress came out lovely. The "client" did tell me that it was her favorite dress when all was said and done.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">We used <b>Simplicity 1416</b>, since it was closest to the inspiration piece, combining the halter straps of view B with the skirt/flounce of view A. I made only slight modifications to it, keeping the princess seams rather than going with the bias-cut design of the Narcisso Rodriguez dress. Although I think it is in my wheelhouse to draft it, we just didn't have the time, or the right fabric locally available. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAyTlD_dKej3rpI3fCyogAf6IBzwFBY9hq7wDerq2JzNvLRu3OoiETzP57ljOpyY4SSsKh3mTo7L-NPxO9IxGoqe1XybALDnbNVbBxcJoXTXalFBTiKGWbxxfnfL5emRFy149gCtzJsN3/s1600/1416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAyTlD_dKej3rpI3fCyogAf6IBzwFBY9hq7wDerq2JzNvLRu3OoiETzP57ljOpyY4SSsKh3mTo7L-NPxO9IxGoqe1XybALDnbNVbBxcJoXTXalFBTiKGWbxxfnfL5emRFy149gCtzJsN3/s1600/1416.jpg" height="200" width="137" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5qyip7djsAg/U1pq7WSp1MI/AAAAAAAABsI/fBGXHFOYRV4/s1600/1416_fbv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5qyip7djsAg/U1pq7WSp1MI/AAAAAAAABsI/fBGXHFOYRV4/s1600/1416_fbv.jpg" height="200" width="137" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I highly recommend this pattern. It required minimal fitting work (FBA and swayback adjustment were all I did) and had pretty good instructions (though I changed the order of the construction and veered from them frequently due to some changes I imposed). I can see myself using this to make a short sundress, as it's very flattering and easy to put together.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9UA_Z7bFhTI7ukmLLW8Kj5sQJKxGCfw7445tIksil4dPv_PP7ytKsQMIUpwE_76H5mPsBRn-npg9MTyf3PF3niRgRo3Ok1gXXH1-J-eIpWqUmvSAMy5zsciRrkZPFE5i9K9GpSEcLuCIe/s1600/IMG_1124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9UA_Z7bFhTI7ukmLLW8Kj5sQJKxGCfw7445tIksil4dPv_PP7ytKsQMIUpwE_76H5mPsBRn-npg9MTyf3PF3niRgRo3Ok1gXXH1-J-eIpWqUmvSAMy5zsciRrkZPFE5i9K9GpSEcLuCIe/s1600/IMG_1124.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My alterations:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> - I flattened the sweetheart neckline to mimic the inspiration dress. This may be have only been necessary due to the FBA, which increased the "roundness" from the original pattern. We wanted to keep a slight sweetheart neckline, though.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> - Used Susan Khalje's method (from her Bridal Couture book) of easing the seam allowance of the front neckline to tighten the fit against the upper bust. I had never tried this, but it worked great. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT8V9Ggtke3JzSsyA8TKp92NdWOlVY047gt0RRrRzhShkDOEUXQwaD1H6fbIxDG9yo1mzuYDll0o0GkHBrCyq4aBP_WBsvYzQWywGwbAOYZrQAkbI4yxeei9TqyG_ZmuzYVGUnqwuQvYoR/s1600/IMG_1127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT8V9Ggtke3JzSsyA8TKp92NdWOlVY047gt0RRrRzhShkDOEUXQwaD1H6fbIxDG9yo1mzuYDll0o0GkHBrCyq4aBP_WBsvYzQWywGwbAOYZrQAkbI4yxeei9TqyG_ZmuzYVGUnqwuQvYoR/s1600/IMG_1127.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of neckline. Dad was the photographer this year, while I made dinner.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> - Although the pattern does include instructions for boning the lining at 6 seams, I went further with a 15-stay corselette, and a waist stay. Wanted it to move with her, and I think it gave her a close, but comfortable fit.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzKtp8Gd71acfC1N-wjt7FMTXYy12p6YCks0S3rb0domkoJH8I0rOITi8PDHLcMxKZF4H7BSyycqgQJgAI2CpHwBdXNqfvEXlH7DsxbMmYRK1nmaAmR2y0e5UcSZn98lbwQudQj6YVbji/s1600/IMG_1131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzKtp8Gd71acfC1N-wjt7FMTXYy12p6YCks0S3rb0domkoJH8I0rOITi8PDHLcMxKZF4H7BSyycqgQJgAI2CpHwBdXNqfvEXlH7DsxbMmYRK1nmaAmR2y0e5UcSZn98lbwQudQj6YVbji/s1600/IMG_1131.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of corselette and waist stay.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> - Lengthened the flounce by 2 inches to accommodate long legs -- more volume there versus lengthening the dress above the knee, so she would have more room to walk.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> - Tapered the dress between the hip line to the lower seam in order to get more of a "mermaid" look (took about 2 inches out of the circumference, mostly from the side seams and front seams, leaving the back alone).</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Don't let crappy lining ruin your project! </span></b><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">We bought all the fabric at a chain store. Of course they didn't carry silk, but they didn't even carry Bemberg lining. The awful polyester lining reminded me of nylon windbreaker fabric from the 1970s. I expected it to fray, which it did. It was also very difficult to sew, snagging and bunching up even though I used very fine thread and a microtex needle. I'm just glad it doesn't show anywhere. It was named "hang free" lining, but it clung mercilessly to everything.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Surprisingly, the polyester crepe-back satin that we used for the fashion fabric was very nice to sew with and I'm pleased with the final results. As soon as I cut it and stay-stitched it, I overlocked the edges, because I was afraid it would fall apart before I could sew the pieces together. I ended up trimming the serged edges with a pinking blade before lining it. Once the project was complete, I caught myself thinking that I may actually sew with this fabric again. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I think this was my daughter's favorite dance, even though she was exhausted. Her day started around 4 AM, since her chamber orchestra was kicking off an early morning business meeting (her reward was getting to hear Madeline Albright speak). And of course the day didn't end until Sunday morning. We hosted dinner for six at our house -- three girls and three boys, all friends, all great kids. I'm sure it was a night she will never forget.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWYZG2tV3ZNUqddrgEa_w6unWS2eASRxcpT2UniATl531p7-LO2khec1JZMH0U7ZmN-PyASDufLXQpeyvhMQg00z7TiL3ppPDbBvkNOnpBl9r2Zku4HAcnzzZrZuk0W_Dgz3uzi4eEAli/s1600/IMG_1107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWYZG2tV3ZNUqddrgEa_w6unWS2eASRxcpT2UniATl531p7-LO2khec1JZMH0U7ZmN-PyASDufLXQpeyvhMQg00z7TiL3ppPDbBvkNOnpBl9r2Zku4HAcnzzZrZuk0W_Dgz3uzi4eEAli/s1600/IMG_1107.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An outtake of the fun group.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My <i>atelier</i> was contained in several bankers boxes and packed away, so that the dining room was relatively neat for a big dinner. I've promised no big projects until I finish the outdoor curtains I started last summer. Only one is complete. Seven more to go. The plan is to finish before the graduation party.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlu_1Z1LzRePj3Qu6m2Ye_bAaPWccBJ_wdNw3fK8VVTVGALaPDdZKxOiwq7nBEhrMEOyqe4jjshPGHSfpvp8skdbl1ZCtmEFDoyvUgpzgbfSz45LFJ31x_zGq8GHWUaTZCNU2orLRFeqq7/s1600/IMG_1132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlu_1Z1LzRePj3Qu6m2Ye_bAaPWccBJ_wdNw3fK8VVTVGALaPDdZKxOiwq7nBEhrMEOyqe4jjshPGHSfpvp8skdbl1ZCtmEFDoyvUgpzgbfSz45LFJ31x_zGq8GHWUaTZCNU2orLRFeqq7/s1600/IMG_1132.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">As for the "last dress" sadness, I suspect there will be more. My daughter auditioned and was accepted to the university's orchestra for next year, so she will need a formal black dress. Can't borrow mine anymore, and she needs a younger look, anyway. She has grand ideas for something spectacular, of that I am sure. </span><br />
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<br />Su-zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07817519272798857249noreply@blogger.com2