Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Vogue 1378 or my "Next Generation" pants

This is the closest I will ever get to a Star Fleet uniform, and I love them! They were fun and easy to sew, and fit me perfectly without any alterations whatsoever. 
Vogue 1378, view B
I do not have the proportions that are flattered by wearing leggings or skinny jeans, but the flare at the hem gave me hope that this style would work for me, and I'm generally satisfied with the result.
Need to adjust my camera -- not sure why it's so grainy.
Unfortunately, the pictures are all rather grainy, and the black fabric doesn't help show the fun details.  Outdoor photos would be better, but the weather hasn't been cooperative.
Opening on outside of leg results in a bit of a flare.
Top stitching detail is even more pronounced here.
These slacks can be dressed up or worn with a casual top (I'm wearing it with a long sleeved yoga pullover & moccasins today, all super comfortable).  I will definitely make at least one more pair, maybe six.  

I used a heavy ponte (poly/rayon/spandex) from Hancock's that comes only in black.  The weight is perfect, and it seems to have more stretch than the ponte fabric in other colors.  I would love to find it in chocolate brown or charcoal or maybe even an olive drab.  No need for a serger, although the two seams that were not lapped, I sewed with a slight zig-zag.

My only gripe with the pattern is that there were no measurements for the finished garment, and no markings for where body landmarks were expected to fall (other than the 1" below waist at the top).  I spent more time fiddling with the tissue, trying to figure out what size to make than I actually spent sewing them.  I finally gave up, and went with Shams' method of going down two sizes from what Vogue's size chart indicated for my body measurements.  I think it worked out fine for me -- any larger, and the pants would bag.  However, if the fabric had any less stretch, I may have to increase some areas.
My attempt to estimate the measurements failed...lucky for me, the pants fit perfectly.

Since there are no side seams, I was worried about how I would handle it if they did not fit.  Luckily, I didn't have to worry about alterations, other than making the elastic at the waist a few inches shorter.  I cut 2" off the bottom when I hemmed, as the pants were a bit to long for my 5'5" frame (I rarely wear heels).

Lapped & Top stitched Seams

Trimming the seam edges gave me some grief.  Nearly ever seam is lapped, and top stitched at least twice per seam, then fabric is trimmed close to the stitching.  My hand was just not steady enough to cut perfectly, but the black hides most of those issues.  The crazy piecing ends up making some nice design lines in the finished product.
One leg stitched and trimmed before sewing the inseam.

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